Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Italia the beautiful-mostly!

Left Panzano regretfully-gorgeous autumn coulours seemed to have appeared overnight!A beautiful drive avoiding Siena and heading for Motalcino where Isabel Dusi lives- she wrote 2 great books about life of an Australian married to a local. In the books she descibes the local carnivale where the 4 quarters of the town compete for an archery prize and have a massive feast afterwards. Colourful banners for each quarter were hanging everywhere as rthe show is on this weekend- weather not flash so I hope they aren't rained out!Dale ahs the headcold cum cough I have had and as usual it seems to affect him more than me- I take Panadol at the drop of a hat when I feel off and it seems to work. We visited a wine shop to taste the local wine (Brunello de Montalcino)128 makers locally all competing foer the market of this highly desirable wine- San Giovese grapes and a special soil locally make it good apparently.Very nice drop!Montalcino has a massive fort and we walked around the wall- great views ( and B... cold!)Headed next to another wine town- Montalpucino- again walled and sitting on a hill surrounded by lovely countryside.Lunched there in a great Edwardian style restaurant- old mirrors etc. and a great view across the countryside- lovely meal of tuna stuffed peppers and potato pudding ( mash wirh cheese on top melted)Just the ticket on a cold old day. The place was packed with Americans and English all panicking about ordering spaghetti!D feels annoyed when we run across lots of non Italians in a place!Bought a pack of 10 Baci as compensation for not having any of the great looking canoli etc. in the showcases-all gone 24 hrs later!Headed south and needed to find a hotel otr somewhere to stay as it was getting late-Chiuso has a great Etruscan heritage and museum and I wanted to see thisso we looked for somewhere- internet not working in local cafe so forced to wing it- ended up at a dodgy hotel having work done to patch the cracks for 50 e per night. Clean but not much else to reccommend it.Had a great stroke of luck for dinner- after a hairy drive in the rain back to Chiuso we saw a group of ypoung Iyalians at the doorof a restaurant- Zuppa d ? and went in. Gorgeous warm lady welcomed us and sat us down then her husband discussed what was on for dinner- no menu.Started with pecorino and pear cubes with walnuts and a sauterne type wine.Pumpkin and spice and cheese soup for Dale while I tried chestnut and lentil soup-both delicious!Dale had 4 meats in tomato and rosemary sauce and I had pork cooked with apples.Artichokes with bechamel and lentils were the veges.Did not need sweets or cheese after this. Usual wine and water and all for 64 euro- excellent food and value!Today left hotel -weather looking better-some sun and no rain!
Heading south but some misdirection meant we ended up next to Lake Tarimasino at Castel de Lago -another lovely town! Bought truffles and cheese at a great little food shop full of local produce. Had lunch at a little trattoria- gnocchi and truffles for 6 euro and prawns with spaghetti for 8 euro.Nice Canadians arrived and we chatted for a while.
Reached Orvieto and we intend to look around there before dropping off the car- blown the budget by booking in at an old monastery!Lovely place if a little overheated. D having a little lie down while I do this.
Not had a bad meal in Italy- Rome still awaits tomorrow!

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