Saturday, September 29, 2007

Norwich

A smallish town on the edge of a river with small boats moored along it. 26 churches made of flintstone in a small area and some pretty Victorian architecture.
Tudor buildings and flintsone remnants of priories and city walls abound.Many horrible 60 70's buildings have spoilt some of its potential charm. Went to an archaelogical dig and restoration of a 1400's merchant,s house- very interesting to see restoration of an almost intact building and the process.Wool was big here- traded with Europe.
Quiet day included wandering the market- lots of greasy fish and chips etc. well patronised by the locals.
Interesting town but not a must see.
Managed to post papers etc home and load will be lighter for Italy.
Keiths son and fiancee came up from Kent today for the day.Had duck a l'orange for dinner- very nice meal.
Weather finer and supposed to be 20 degrees all week when we are in London. Having a massage tomorrow before heading to Kent and London for more adventures.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Au revoir France Hello UK!

Limoges was an interesting town- not a great tourist destination which was part of its charm. Had a shishkebab for lunch in a Turkish restaurant reminiscent of many at home-off to explore l and find our porcelaine museum- sensible in the rain!
Navigation is a real challemge when angled streets and unreadable street names combine! Fraught tired driver did not help! Anyhow managed to find our destination and it was a great collection of porcelain from all over the world tho predominately Limoges- some exquisite exhibition pieces in white bisque were outstanding as were giant Minton animals etc. Collectors with plenty of cash did well if they had an obsession-we are the benificiaries when they donate it to the state!
All in a magnificent old 3 storey house in well designed display cases. At the beginning a film showong the process of making and foring various types of porcelaine- Limoges has a special clay which is ideal for it.The hotel we atyed at ( Hotel de la Paix) did not disappoint- 65 euro with a traditional croissant, baguette and hot chocolate breakfast yumm..
There was aslo a mini museum on the hotel- gramophones automatons organs records etc. collected by te patron over 40 odd years- facinating stuff (thanks trip advisor)
Off to the airport for our flight to Stansted and our friends.
Weather in UK not great cooler and windier than we were used to!
Caught up with our washing and then off to Norwich and Norfolk for a 2 day whiz around. Visited a reconstruction of and Iceni village and then Dale visited the Lancia place he has dealt with over the years. Off to downtown Norwich- pretty town and then to our motel like hotel for bed and dinner- usual story in UK ordinary food at extraordinary prices!Yesterday went to Walsingham where a woman had vision to make a church in 800 or so- now a pilgrimage site and healing centre- quite ontersting village and ruined priory.Then to thetford where there is an extraordinary collection of sreet organs and steam machinery.All is in excellent working condition and all the organs go off in sequence with all the dolls and figures doing their thing to the music.Then the Wurlitzer performance! What can I say a chap in Burberry socks, pinstriped suit and fake tan doing a Liberace on the organ!Talented player doing amazing things with his feet and 3 keyboards- all televised CCTV onto a screen alongside the stage- glittering lights and elderly audience was surreal!
Off to some sanity ? at Sandringham the Queen's Christmas residence- lovely decor in the rooms and attendants who were very entertaining and informative.Great garden very lovely-including a giant Buddha bought back by Edward VII when he went off on a trip with Mrs Keppel ( Camilla's grandmother) one of his many mistresses.
Interesting and amusing day!
Off to explore Norwich now!Dale has a library card (to use this computer) for the first time in his life!

Saturday, September 22, 2007

La belle France

LOvely weather continues for us- we had a great day in Perigueux a very interetsing Medieval town in one part and a Roman town in another.
Tourist info was excellent and we spent 2 hours in a living musueum of medieval buildings, beautifully preserved and restored without being too obvious. The shops were excellent as was the local market with mounds of fruit and vegetables. Lots of cheeses from the area and enormous amounts of fois gras the local speciality_ made by force feeding ducks and geese large amounts of corn until their livers are fatty. Each farm has its secret recipe for making fois gras from the livers and sell it world wide. We tasted it and it is like a smooth liver pate -garlic and herbs add to the flavour.
The local school children were fundraising for an end of school trip and were so charming that we donated happily_ wild costumes and cute accents as they all learn English here.
On the way to the Roman ruins found a trope doiel gallery and workshop. A local artist has done much work at Versailles and other grand places mimicking marble, woods, frescoes and all manner of other scenery on flat surfaces. Amazing display of work - pretend doors with coats hanging on them scenes outside, bookshelves- even a garage tool wall - must ve known Dale was coming!Off to the Roman ruins again fairly well preserved and the violent history of the area seems to have been repeated again and again- Gauls vs Romans, Catholics vs Huguenots and Gestapo vs the locals So sad to see a resitance memorial showing a statue of people with hands tied behind their backs after execution.Thursday was a local Hautefort day; Visited the chateau and gardens- a stunning day again. Chateau furnished with mixture of styles as burnt in 1968 -reproduction walnut woodwork was amazingly like the old photos of the original and cleverly done.Gardens were topiried and Italian style with swirling pattern box hedges and flowers in between- all overlooking the most superb countryside of walnut groves, hazlenut trees and cornfields; Sent home 11kg of books, clothes etc;Hit Nathalie and Arnands for another 5 course gastronomic delight. I had duck this time and Dale had the triflette we still passed on the cheese and left room for the fig tart this time.Friday we saw our Dutch friends in their house about 30mins drive away- navigation there was interesting thru little villages. The beautiful weather continued and we had lunch at the golf course after Dale and Rudy had played 9 holes. Katy and I walkesd around the Limerat and met most of the locals enroute bonjouring all the way.Local church is 11th century with bells and clocktower. Someone moved into the village and proceeded to climb the tower and muffle the bells as he was disturbed by the noise!Needless to say he did not win any friends doing this- such arrogance§
Have now driven thru rain to Limoges and are about to get lunch somewhere and possibly visit the porcelain museum here;Back in UK Sunday.

Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Wildlife in the French Countryside

In wondefful downtown Perigueux today stunning weather 20° C sunny arrived in Limoges after a flying journey on the French rail system; car at the airport as the alamo office closed sat pm lovely taxi driver indicated the correct route to take_ despite this we drove around Limoges villages for a while to get the correct road out_ good for Dale to practice his LH drive technique_ scary at first seeing cars approaching in the left lane_ even for the navigating passenger!All well and we reached Hautefort to get directions at the tourist office to Chassaing where our house is - it looked even better than the internet photos and Mike and Elaine Moore (expat UK) were most kind and hospitable giving us a welcome cup of tea.Suggested a restaurant in the next villag for dinner_ lovely cute decor and an amazing meal aperitif 5 courses and wine for 60 dollars for 2i e vge soup,salade and pate entree,roast turkey with beer and grapes,massivplate of veges cheese platter pear tart to die for So much we did not eat much the next day really lovely home cooking_ Perigord specialities of duck gizzard salad and duck confit were passed on too fatty we thought_Visited Hautefort Sunday after catching up on washing.The ,medical museum there was fascinating in an old hospice run by the nuns for the poor. Babies could be abandoned there thru a revolving cradle so no one saw the mother.Black death Dr and nun models in a reconstructed ward of the 17th century started the display then dental,pharmacy and doctors surgeries from all eras were shown with actual offices donated and loaned by people in the area_very interesting,informative place.Monday was not fine so had a rest day around the village. Coming out of the papershop D spied an Aston Martin V12
most unexpected sight in a tiny village. The owner turned out to be a local who took us for coffee and to show us his house nearby. He is in Paris now and we hope to catch up before we leave.Dinner at Nathalies again as we felt we could cope better now by not eating bread etc.Had another lovely meal and chatted to a personable Dutch couple who invited us to play golf with them. Forecast not good till Fri so it is planned for then. Tues set off for Rocamadour and Collanges Rouges which we visited 30 yrs ago. Both are still beautiful places but commercialism is rife!Crazy numbers of shops galleries etc in both some full of junk souvenirs others with interesting goodies none of which I need.Dale managed the drive on the motorway at 130k hit the vermouth and bed.
Today have bought the most tasty and expensive sheep cheeses from a chrming saleswoman at the market here and embarking on the tourist walks this afternoon,looks a great town so far.

Friday, September 14, 2007

Aurevoir Paris

After the museum yesterday we finally made the Louvre today.Dale has succumbed to the charms of Paris- not that he'd ever admit it!My call- he says- whenever I suggest something-a it of a change of attitude from the first museum and church resistant days in Paris. Anyhow years of car related diversion of the mind deserves some reward-fair is fair, I feel.
Sick of being long suffering facilitator while resenting the mind elsewhere of my huband- worrying more about car related matters than other things which I feel should have more priority.
D survived the Louvre visit and I enjoyed it- the objects d'arte section was the first priority and we managed to see some French painting and napoleons apartments as wel. Memories dim after 30 years and the size of the Louvre is something I had forgotten- we only saw a fraction of it in 5 hours!
Off on the bateau mouche for a cruise up and down the Seine- great photo then home to pack. Chatted to a chap going to the Rugby tonight had an English shirt on so I presumed he is English- turns out he was French- from the country barracking for them against the Sth Africans.packed for Chassaing- don'tknow ifwell have access to email so this may be the last one for a while.Car OK and Accommodation is OK- checked by phone. Off to dinner tonight at the good place over the road. Said goodbye to Helene and told her how we appreciated her hospitality-would definitely stay here again.

Thursday, September 13, 2007

Thursday's adventures

Have arrived back from a lovely day out- went to the Q de Orsay again to see the Vollard exhibition- he was an astute art dealer who bought and exhibited many impressionists in their early yrs and also recognised Picasso early.Cezanne, VanGogh, Renoir, Degas,Gauguin,Matisse were all represnted along with lesser known artists ( at least by me)Vollard wrote monographs on their work and publicised them well in the US and OS-all in his own and their interest of course. Paintings came from all over the world for this show US, London,Russia as well s some from the Paris collection. One from Russia a lovely Cezanne flower painting looked as tho someone had scratched the letter R over it defacing it slightly?restored after terrible damage. Not too big for D to cope with and not too crowded, so a success!
Walked along the Seine looking at the most amazing antiquities shops- furniture, fossils and even a stuffed platypus and stuffed heads!No needto go to museums to see such things.
Found our good lunch place of the left bank-had a salad and fish and D had the smoked salmon and steak- we both had the Normandy dessert-chesnut puree, icecream and calvados.Very good value and seems to have non touristy food.(32e incl 2 Heinekens)Saw a collision between an unwary pedestrian and lady on pushbike on a crossing-bike riders here tend to ignore traffic lights as they do in Oz
Metroed to the Marmotten to see the Monets there- a flash area of Paris with lovely parks and general affluent air. A rich collector had gathered all manner of beautiful things in his lovely house- illuminated manuscripts, alterpieces,sculpture along with paintings of Monet he had bought or people donated to the museum. Monets son had left his pallette to it also along with family memorobilia and paintings.Many pictures done at Giverney were there so it was good to see the show after visiting the garden.A Berthe Moriset show on too as a bonus.
Walking back to the metro there were bike riders doing a London Paris ride-including a lady of 70+ -good on her- leading the pack of all ages,shapes and sizes.Good humoured banter as they tangled with pedestrians,cars and other bikes. Traffic seems less than we remember -all small cars and motor and pushbikes with no helmets.Home to coffee-no restaurant tonight need a small plain meal after last night's effort!Booked in for tomorrow though at Cheri Bibi.

Gardens and more

After Monets garden decided to try a local restaurant reccommended by Helene-over the street from our door. Rocked up at 630too early dinner started at 815! Delightful staff who knew a little English and with my french managed to sort out what the dishes were-lovely cooking-Dale had raw salmon in sesame oil-v good while I chose the vela cutlet with saladandchutney of pearsetc.Entrees were prawns done in hili and coriander and pate campagne served from a giant pot- as much as you wanted!I hd strawbwrries with basil and Dale had tiramisu for dessert. All for 24e per head plus wine and water cost-terrific cooking so we went back last night after visiting Versailles (more later)
Versailles is stillfabulou-more open than last time we were there-amzing opulence everywhere-no wonder the peasants were poor!
Hikedat least 10k to petite and grande trianon and the arm where M Antoinette played at being normal-very cute place away from the big palace. Had animals there and locals can visit farm and gardens free-lots of grannies with little ones.Gorgeous cool fine day again.-perfect!Arrivd home 7 ish after seeing the amazing sight across the river of 1000 Scots waving flags etc playing bagpipes following a double decker bus along the edge of the river- a soccer match on that night against France!Truly a scary noisy sight( Scots won )Possiby intimidated the opposition with their wild noisy crazine!
Off to Cher Bibi again. Ordered the raw fish entree then the beef casserole type dish- cevich ws great- lime juie marinated fish with oriander and veges.Dale had pupkin and ginger soup which was also good.Beef asserole ws slow cookedblack looking with spicyundertones yum! Lots of it. D ordered mash with his and I a green sald ( a good move as it turned out)Full fter mais we couln't resist oering tarte tatin (apple pie) just to see what it was like. Big tactical error as we were soo full and we didn't need much breakfast this morning! Off to quai dorsay and louvre today and marmottan to see the Monets in the next session with a boat cruise thrown in - tomorrow our last day then off to the country!

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Getting lost and injured in Paris

Panic not -nothing serious-last night decided to venture up the hill for dinner-tourist menus everywhere so chose a Pizza joint presuming 12euro could not be too bad with minestrone to start. French style Italian is a bit less tomatoey and blander than we are used to, maybe budget was tight on ingredients?? Anyhow, it was a disappointment, so off we went on a long walk as it ws a lovely evening-sun setting,pink clouds and litup Eiffel tower in the distance, alas no camera with us!
Took a very devious route home thru alleys and streets passing some much better restaurants ( and more expensive)which we will check out. Ended up about 3 km from our place and walked the boulevard along with the local prostitutes and their pimps. As there is a Rugby world Cup on there were plenty of potential customers- the Scots were wearing kilts and travelling in well lubricated packs enjoying themselves.One had a red Indian feathered headress on with a kilt- bonjouring all and sundry while weaving along -truly a fearsome sight.
Today have done Monet's Garden-however nearly lost my arm in the Metro door-quick and the dead- even if you are still letting people and prams etc. off-no real damage.
Trip to Giverney uneventful except for the conversation of some American ladies behind us-one upping each other-one had had lunch with Mrs Ferragamo!Garden as fabulous as I expected- gorgeous day for it.The house is also beautiful lots of character and charm.Not too many people there to enjoy it.
Back in Paris we walked thru the throng and bought patisserie to have with coffee back a home.Found a great shop where colourful accessories sold and antique perfume bottles etc.sold in another lovely shop.Off to find a decent place for dinner!

Sunday, September 9, 2007

Paris ctd

What luxery to have some time in Paris-Sat lovely day so decided to do another LP walk- this time thru the Marais on the Right bank looking at the grand houses built by the aristocracy-most are built around ,so their grandeur is less apparent nowadays.
The musee of the middle ages on the left bank in an old abbots palace was our morning stop-old locks, jewellery, pilgrims medals and great tapestries. Lot of sculpture and remnants of churches wrecked along with collections of ivory boxsides finly carved and reliqueries with bits of saints in them in silver and gold- even one with Christ umbilicus!
near the Sorbonne so lots of activity- mothers with their fresher children buying books etc.Great clothes deals and lunches 13 e for 3 good courses over here.
Sun had a lazy read this am and then off to see Marie Antoinettes prison - great display and explanations - horrible vibe though. To recover went for a beer in Place de la Dauphine a quiet little triangular spot with a nice cafe. Metro home and the bells of Sacre Couer ringing overhead while I type.What adventures next week- have some shops I need to revisit and Versailles and Monets garden await as does Q d'Orsay special exhibition.

Friday, September 7, 2007

Walkabout in Paris

We had a non museum day to save Dale's sanity- a brain can only absorb so much!
Pere Lachaise cemetery sounded interesting and was a short metro ride away so off we went-luckily weather kind-cool and fine-my sort of weather for walking.
Decided to go woth the flow- very peaceful - hazard of being bruised by falling chestnuts along certain roads- followed a kind lady's direction to Oscar Wilde's grave- ironically covered with love messages from women in lipstick!
The grave of Piaf not far away and we happened upon Gramme's monument ( we'd seen another bronze statue exactly the same of him at Art et Metiers Museum)- having a bronze is a multi purpose exercise!Lots of other tombs of families etc. with some interesting designs-one chap crawling out of granite!A funeral was happening at the crematorium- slight burning smell in the air reminded us of our mortality!
The next walk was through the arae of the right bank- following a walk in the Lonely Planet guide-amazing shops with everything from paintings, written documents, medals, lined arcades around the Palais Royale Garden-followed the map through several other arcades with glass roofs and decoration- rock shops, walking stick shops ,dress designer,vintage postcard,art books and second hand clothes shops-amazing stuff!
No room to carry anything and ironically I lost? my purse <10 euro so no problem with buying-still we still have time for me to change my mind and post stuff home- clothes etc. aren't too bad cost wise- beautiful shoes 180e and great winter gear 100e jacket-not outrageous.Good summer flats to be had at 5-10e depending on design.Wish I had Anthea's feet and body with me!
Patisserie on the way home undid the good calorie balance!
A good day-will attack the left bank tomorrow- see if no purse will attract pickpockets??

Thursday, September 6, 2007

Encounters today

Ha a fascinating day yesterday in the arts and materials museum-where art and engineering collided.
Focaults pendulum,Lavoisiers laboratory along with numerous exhibits of every technology from weaving to glassmaking etc etc.Fantastic!
Old and new cars,rockets,old and new planes-all well explained. Building of churches,engines along with some social comment on theimpact of it all.Lastexhibits including the pendulumwere in a decommisiioned church on platforms.
Automaton display amazing- canaries in gold cages, M antoinnette playing a piano moving pictures and acrobats etc.You could press a button for some and they would do their thing.Then we were there for a display by the experts-hd no ticket for it but they didn't care!Hooray for the kind French attitude generally.Everything was demonstrated- a clock with moving music parts the king had owned-bellows and machinery parts were explained-I understood bits.None of this stuff in Oz!
Today off toRodin's house a garden a lovely small museum- then walked down Champs Elysee to Arc de T.
Hd a brief encounter with a gypsy who was confused when I tried to give a gold ring he had found at my feet back to him! Gendarme(Plainlothes) carted him off explaining to us he was a thief and ring was fake gold-not hard to tell!
Thought to go to Picasso but it was closed for renos when we got there after visiting Place de Vosges-gorgeous square well patronised by locals. Think pheremones are in the air here- courting couples young and old everywhere in clinches.Shock horror!Hd tourist 2 courses 12.50euro nr Bastille
Thought the Pompidou close by so checked it was late closing. Amazing stuff-esp installation Annette Messenger Look her up on web Weird butintersting.Home after the trip to supr market and patisserie. Good sleep tonight

Tuesday, September 4, 2007

Paris 2

Yesterday started using the open double decker bus to get our bearings- there are 4 routes an a 28 euro ticket givs you 2 days to do them- you can hop on and off as you please. The most popular route took us along the Champs Elysee around Eiffel Tour and past Notre Dame and surrounding streets- impressive layout-the powers during 19th century certainly mde the most of it-using grand plans of giant boulevards and visual accents at each end to great effect.Difficult to appreciate overall on foot how clever they were.We saw bits of Paris that we had not seen before and were impressed by its overall grandeur.Today did the other 2 bits- saw the new opera house at Bastille and the new development at Bercy-finance dept another modern grand building.The new national library recently finished looks good too.Reminiscent of the old Gas and fuel towers was the Montparnesse tower which stands out like a sore thumb when you see a panorama of Paris-bad 70s architecture-what were they thinking??.Angelus is ringing from Sacre Couer as I type this.
Anyhow after left bank tour we had lunch in a restaurant recommended by a friend ( Jan N) and hd a very pleasant lunch of steak with pepper sauce with a glass of red wine.Off to join the throng at Notre Dame after wandering through the sts of the left bank-(will get back there).Sun was out so the windows were magnificant.Then over to St Chappelle-wow!The old chapel of the kings of France was amazing- colours,gold and superb stained glass.Not too big, this is beautiful. Easy to imagine court ladies and gents in brocades and silk in here!Like a wonderful stage set but 800 yrs old. Thank Goodness the revolutionaries did not destroy it!
Being a tourist is excellent in this fine cool weather- let's hope it holds!
We have christened our orange card metro passes which will be worn out by the end of the week.

Sunday, September 2, 2007

Paris

Finally hit Paris lunchtime yesterday after a flatout week in UK-last blogpossibly incohetent-rushed due to pressure of packing etc.Wild taxiride from the airport to find our accommodation is wonderful-on the edge of the Sacre Couer hill and ith a wonderful landlady who likes her guests toaccess her pool and garden-all small but lovely.Room small with kitchenette- microwave and hot plate ith all goodies needed to do simple meals-milk coffee water an soft drinks supplied-she brought us a fresh orange juice as we looked a little tired and stressed when we arrived- CdeG queues were not good but all OK in the end.Showered and slept then read papers etc. Off to the local supermarket for supplies-how much wine and cheese can people consume? At least100 varieties of cheese and winw along with allother liqueur and spirits in a small supermarket in a fairly poor area-could't see brandy but made do with brandy euro- not bad!Bought a variety of camembert,a blue which stinks out the fridge and a boring gouda type.51 euro bought usbasic bits,saladetc which we thought wsnt bad compRED TO iRELAND AND eNGLAND.
Area has lots of Africans and a few beggars around but seems OK.
Off to musee d'orsay today along with half of Paris as it is the one free day permonth-less difficult as used sense with queues and it moved quickly.Amazing place converted from an old railway station-room after room of impressionists and amazing furniture etc.Almost like having toomuch chocolate-fantastique! Had walked in so decided to metro home- chose a station uphill from where we live nd so wandered downhill thru Sacrecoer ground with tourists and buskers galore.Bells were ringing and scenery superb.
Dale hs befriended the cat here so he is a bit homesick but the delights of Paris should distract him.
Hopefullywether will remain calm and pleasant perfect for tourists.Have bought our first tartes for desserttonight yumm!Excuse spacing and caps but very small computer!