Cork and beyond

Cork looks run down and dirty at first impression compared to the loveliness of green farms and vegetation in the west coast.Our journey to Cork from Kinsale following directions of our charming host in Kinsale was nerveracking to find parking- we did find some in the usual multistorey add on to shops.The wide streets and cute bridges seduced us in the end, and having 1/2 a day to fill after going as far as we could genealogy wise, improved our first impressions.
We had lunch in a rugby themed pub frequented by the local legal community- young buttoned up types hoeing their way thru beer and lots of carbohydrate- potatoes of all types. We chose the vege soup which was terific- hearty homemade and tasty.
Lots of signed rugby jumpers,flags and 1991 world cup match on TV completed the scene.
Off to the Cork jail- closed down 1920s but still a forbidding place- Pentridge style architecture and intact cells with life like dummies in and a good audio guide was a worthwhile experience- usual story- born poor you were in dire straits!Daniel o Connor's signature ws on a cell wall along with other recalcitrants who were Irish nationalists
Was a great walk back to town -good views of the whole place.Rendezvoused with Keith and Carol ( we had a seperate day).Headed to Cobh where we were booked in for a night. Missed the turn off and ended up in a town of small houses dominated by a cathedral almost on the water's edge-clean grey granite was a change from the city churches ( all that good fresh sea air?)Cute town where the Titanic last called before hitting the iceberg. Rang the B and B and the husband came to lead us thru the one way maze back to the band b about 3 km out of town in the country.Not a pretty house ( grey) the hostess was kind and chatty and suggested where we could eat. Rolled her eyes when we told her about Kinsale experience- probably unlicensed she thought.Rooms were clean, not glamourous but adequate.Had a bath- leaping around Cork on a warm day needed strong dose of water and bath gel- bliss!
Visited the Cobh heritage centre after a good breakfast- on the old railway station.
The displays of migrants' conditions in 1800's with sound effects , dark and a sloping floor were very well done. Models of sick vomitting people lying around in cabins of actual size gave an appreciation of horrible times they must have had when the sea was rough.Fortunately, smell was not imitated!
There were photos of the luxury ships of the day- first class conditions were amazingly sumptous-banquets, fine furniture, glass roofs and decoration++.
Models showed where the other classes and crew were housed-different story.Later 1950 liners' conditions were shown- similar to those I remember the country rels' cabins I saw as a child. Well worth visiting.
Off to our south coast drive to Wexford. Stopped at Waterford after diversion from highway due to a road accident. Did not bother with the crystal factory- good museum there- Viking remains, combs etc. in a well laid out display. Great audio guide again. Brought home how vulnerable these people were to invaders- Viking or British etc.Depending on religion- who was in power, abbeys,families castles were laid to ruin. Many relics of conflicts litter the coast- towers, churches and walls of now non existent settlements. Coastal scenery pleasant to drive through and roads a bit better than the west coast generally.Reached our destination at Killiane castle- another relic built in 1476 to whch a 1920 extension has been added- 3 storeys and no lift could challenge some case carrying people.Decoration English country house style and a lovely room overlooking sea and fields of green augered well.Recommended pub down the road served great Dublin bay prawns for dinner. Went for the farm walk after dinner- serious mud and midges!Saw the fat chooks and hot house with our breakfast tomatoes growing.Cows and a happy bull completed the livestock.
After a good sleep, packed and went to breakfast. Had excellent pancakes with maple syrup and bacon- not as nasty as you'd expect!The owner John Mertagh is allowed by his family to serve breakfast and is a delightful chap who invited us to climb the old tower before we left. There are plans to restore it and Irish tax Law allows people concessions to restore ancient properties, provided they are open for two hours a day to the public.I am not in love with heights but gave myself a good talking to and climbed the stone stairs about 2 ft wide- winding up it to the top. Rooms came off at intervals- musty and showing signs of years of neglect-on the roof were stone rafters and you could walk around the edge looking over the battlements- really interesting to look at the structure close up.
Called into Wexford for an internet check no flight problems! and wander- nice little place.
Took the scenic route thru the hills of Wicklow-green fields, trees and heather on the hills-lunched at a gourmet deli wine shop Learmonth -best -fresh baguette salad.excellent capuccino. on the miliatary trail put in by the British in 1700s to chase the Irish rebels.
Off we went- a trip to Dublin about 2 hrs away so we had time for a stop. Decided on Powerscourt garden as it was a lovely day and our guide to Ireland suggested it was the best garden to see.Had to agree- stunning layout-visit if you can.Amazing what lots of money and taste can do.Saw a lawn like green velvet-100s of yards wide and long with manicured plants and flower beds. Pet cemetery (horses and dogs)was idiosyncratic touch.After a good wander and lots of photos headed off to get to the airport by 7 for our flight home at 915pm. Roadworks on the freeway that circle Dublin meant we were delayed for an hour- a trip of 20 mins took 80mins. Car had to be returned at 7- no signs- general confusion but somehow ended up there at 615. No problems Still we were there at Ryan air counter first to check in. Flight delayed till 2255!Could've gone to Dublin for a few hours had we known.Had the usual airport boredom alleviated by watching a rugby match of Ireland vs Italy- desperation!
Flight Ok - chatted to a chap who is a BMW mechanic in Ireland ( from Ilford in Essex) which was pleasant.Arrived back in Thurston at 2 instead of midnight as anticipated.
Have done the washing this am in anticipation of a busy week up to Derbyshire, Sheffield and Cambridge before we head to France for 3 weeks next Sat.