Dinner with Catherine again- Dale donated a compass to her for the rest of her travels.Had big hors d'oevres platter after our steak and rugulo lunch near the rotunda Wandered along the corso and via nationale- police out in force as some demos happening- bought top,scarf and cloak in a lovly shop canova?
Packed up to move to the aparment ( clover)Apartment ok on opposite side of station-lots of Chinese shops and dodgy looking characters there.OK sleep and breakfast at station again-2x2 croissants and coffees for 8 euro!
Visited St Mary Maggiore- mosaics in darkness even tho church full of tourists and worshippers. Called into supermarket opposite for lollies for the plane and caught train to airport 1/2 hour trip got us there early. Weather fine and cool.Found presents for Stu and Alex
Left Rome with mixed feelings- sorry the trip was over but looking forward to seeing family again.Trip home with security checks at every stopover was tedious as lots of games etc on plane did not work. Popped a pill and managed to get a few hrs after Dubai.Bed at 430 am Oz time after children met us.It was lovely to see them.Even Abby seemed to remember us!Now back to normality.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Saturday, October 27, 2007
More Rome
Have ome time now as we have moved to another part of the beehive and computer use is not as in demand.Rome was wonderful and we have paced ourselves- Trastavere the first day along with the Balbi for a good insight into the digging up of ancient Rome followed by a walk thru the ghetto to the pantheon and a good restaurant recommended by Beehive people.
Great pasta and we then headed in the rain to St Clement of the underground river and on to St Giovanni de Lateran where all the popes are buried- great statuary there and an impressive size.In the rain braved the bus back to termini and had a meal at a station self serve where the girls grilled meat of your choice 5eveges3e for aserve and a 1/2 bottle of good wine for 5e- cheap and cheerful!Breakfast the next day were charged 27e for 2 capuccinos fresh OJs and 2 ham and cheese panini and 1 croissant- real tourist rip bur oj and coffee were excellent!Breakfast at the railway Italian pasticceria for 2 caps and 2 filled-1 fruit 1 custard croissants the next day was 4e! Go figure.Dinner a disaster fatty meat stew called veal in wine sauce tho Dale roast chicken was fine- real tourist place but we were tired and desperate!
Anyhow good value is to be had in Italy generally, Booked a ticket to the Borghese Gallery for 1pm excellent value as the palace is a work of art itself and there was a Canova exhibition as well as all the other wonders there. Spent 2 hrs and then wandered thru the park to the Popolo place- great misty view over Rome. Visited Spanish steps on way to Borghese- expensive hotels and dress shops Valentinos workroom was one I spotted-fendi gucci etc. all there!Full of Americans and Middle Eastern princesses.
Headed back to the beehive walking as the sun was out and again covered 7km or so!Met a nice lady from Melbourne and had dinner with her at the beehive. Have a ticket to the Massimo from th Balbi visit- went there in 2004 a great little museum with sculpture, frescoes and mosaics from ancient Roman sites discovered during earthworks, building etc.Have rooms reconstructed from the past with original wall paintings etc. lovely.
Also a massive coin display of every coin minted in Italy sine Christsd time amazing to see well arranged and explained.
A mummy of an aristocratic young girl was also displayed- showing all the work done on her- DNA studies,cloth analysis etc.
Jewellery and other artifacts were also shown so all in all a good place to see a potted history of Roman sculpture, mosaic work and frescos.Anyone interested in coinage and history of money would also find it worthwhile.Searching for shoes but found a dressshop instead- poor Dale- finally bought myself something I wouldn't find in Melbourne!
There seems to be some sort of industrial/political activity today- police in their cool uniforms and boots strutting their stuff on the street. Large marches with banners and lots of people and balloons-can't figure what it is all about.
Have crossed paths with some of the politicians, diplomat types in flash cars with police escorts outside restaurants and buildings-seem to be very security conscious- reckon terrorists would need to disguise themselves as tourists as it seems everyone ignores you if you look like one- comforting in some ways!
Off to another dinner at the beehive tonight our last in Roma- lunch at our good place at the Rotunda was sliced steak on a bed of rocket-just the ticket before a vegetarian feast tonight. Have walked our feet off in Rome! Daylight saving finishes tomorrow so we have a sleep in tonight!Ciao.
Great pasta and we then headed in the rain to St Clement of the underground river and on to St Giovanni de Lateran where all the popes are buried- great statuary there and an impressive size.In the rain braved the bus back to termini and had a meal at a station self serve where the girls grilled meat of your choice 5eveges3e for aserve and a 1/2 bottle of good wine for 5e- cheap and cheerful!Breakfast the next day were charged 27e for 2 capuccinos fresh OJs and 2 ham and cheese panini and 1 croissant- real tourist rip bur oj and coffee were excellent!Breakfast at the railway Italian pasticceria for 2 caps and 2 filled-1 fruit 1 custard croissants the next day was 4e! Go figure.Dinner a disaster fatty meat stew called veal in wine sauce tho Dale roast chicken was fine- real tourist place but we were tired and desperate!
Anyhow good value is to be had in Italy generally, Booked a ticket to the Borghese Gallery for 1pm excellent value as the palace is a work of art itself and there was a Canova exhibition as well as all the other wonders there. Spent 2 hrs and then wandered thru the park to the Popolo place- great misty view over Rome. Visited Spanish steps on way to Borghese- expensive hotels and dress shops Valentinos workroom was one I spotted-fendi gucci etc. all there!Full of Americans and Middle Eastern princesses.
Headed back to the beehive walking as the sun was out and again covered 7km or so!Met a nice lady from Melbourne and had dinner with her at the beehive. Have a ticket to the Massimo from th Balbi visit- went there in 2004 a great little museum with sculpture, frescoes and mosaics from ancient Roman sites discovered during earthworks, building etc.Have rooms reconstructed from the past with original wall paintings etc. lovely.
Also a massive coin display of every coin minted in Italy sine Christsd time amazing to see well arranged and explained.
A mummy of an aristocratic young girl was also displayed- showing all the work done on her- DNA studies,cloth analysis etc.
Jewellery and other artifacts were also shown so all in all a good place to see a potted history of Roman sculpture, mosaic work and frescos.Anyone interested in coinage and history of money would also find it worthwhile.Searching for shoes but found a dressshop instead- poor Dale- finally bought myself something I wouldn't find in Melbourne!
There seems to be some sort of industrial/political activity today- police in their cool uniforms and boots strutting their stuff on the street. Large marches with banners and lots of people and balloons-can't figure what it is all about.
Have crossed paths with some of the politicians, diplomat types in flash cars with police escorts outside restaurants and buildings-seem to be very security conscious- reckon terrorists would need to disguise themselves as tourists as it seems everyone ignores you if you look like one- comforting in some ways!
Off to another dinner at the beehive tonight our last in Roma- lunch at our good place at the Rotunda was sliced steak on a bed of rocket-just the ticket before a vegetarian feast tonight. Have walked our feet off in Rome! Daylight saving finishes tomorrow so we have a sleep in tonight!Ciao.
Orvieto and Rome
Arrived in the bustling Rome termini station after a great day in Orvieto- the best risotto ever and dropping off the car.
Rome still dirty crazy feral and full of tourists but wonderful! Visited a great new archaeological museum where you walk into the dig itself ( Balbi) as well as all the good mosaic churches. St Clements also has a dig in progress and a Mithraen temple underneath as well as a 4th century church. Dale worried about the safety aspects due to the underground river ou could hear nearby - I said its been there for 3000yrs so dont worry!
Borghese gallery yesterday and off today for our last full day then home- alas!
Mixed emotions looking forward to the children and friends again to say nothing of the cats!
Rome still dirty crazy feral and full of tourists but wonderful! Visited a great new archaeological museum where you walk into the dig itself ( Balbi) as well as all the good mosaic churches. St Clements also has a dig in progress and a Mithraen temple underneath as well as a 4th century church. Dale worried about the safety aspects due to the underground river ou could hear nearby - I said its been there for 3000yrs so dont worry!
Borghese gallery yesterday and off today for our last full day then home- alas!
Mixed emotions looking forward to the children and friends again to say nothing of the cats!
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Italia the beautiful-mostly!
Left Panzano regretfully-gorgeous autumn coulours seemed to have appeared overnight!A beautiful drive avoiding Siena and heading for Motalcino where Isabel Dusi lives- she wrote 2 great books about life of an Australian married to a local. In the books she descibes the local carnivale where the 4 quarters of the town compete for an archery prize and have a massive feast afterwards. Colourful banners for each quarter were hanging everywhere as rthe show is on this weekend- weather not flash so I hope they aren't rained out!Dale ahs the headcold cum cough I have had and as usual it seems to affect him more than me- I take Panadol at the drop of a hat when I feel off and it seems to work. We visited a wine shop to taste the local wine (Brunello de Montalcino)128 makers locally all competing foer the market of this highly desirable wine- San Giovese grapes and a special soil locally make it good apparently.Very nice drop!Montalcino has a massive fort and we walked around the wall- great views ( and B... cold!)Headed next to another wine town- Montalpucino- again walled and sitting on a hill surrounded by lovely countryside.Lunched there in a great Edwardian style restaurant- old mirrors etc. and a great view across the countryside- lovely meal of tuna stuffed peppers and potato pudding ( mash wirh cheese on top melted)Just the ticket on a cold old day. The place was packed with Americans and English all panicking about ordering spaghetti!D feels annoyed when we run across lots of non Italians in a place!Bought a pack of 10 Baci as compensation for not having any of the great looking canoli etc. in the showcases-all gone 24 hrs later!Headed south and needed to find a hotel otr somewhere to stay as it was getting late-Chiuso has a great Etruscan heritage and museum and I wanted to see thisso we looked for somewhere- internet not working in local cafe so forced to wing it- ended up at a dodgy hotel having work done to patch the cracks for 50 e per night. Clean but not much else to reccommend it.Had a great stroke of luck for dinner- after a hairy drive in the rain back to Chiuso we saw a group of ypoung Iyalians at the doorof a restaurant- Zuppa d ? and went in. Gorgeous warm lady welcomed us and sat us down then her husband discussed what was on for dinner- no menu.Started with pecorino and pear cubes with walnuts and a sauterne type wine.Pumpkin and spice and cheese soup for Dale while I tried chestnut and lentil soup-both delicious!Dale had 4 meats in tomato and rosemary sauce and I had pork cooked with apples.Artichokes with bechamel and lentils were the veges.Did not need sweets or cheese after this. Usual wine and water and all for 64 euro- excellent food and value!Today left hotel -weather looking better-some sun and no rain!
Heading south but some misdirection meant we ended up next to Lake Tarimasino at Castel de Lago -another lovely town! Bought truffles and cheese at a great little food shop full of local produce. Had lunch at a little trattoria- gnocchi and truffles for 6 euro and prawns with spaghetti for 8 euro.Nice Canadians arrived and we chatted for a while.
Reached Orvieto and we intend to look around there before dropping off the car- blown the budget by booking in at an old monastery!Lovely place if a little overheated. D having a little lie down while I do this.
Not had a bad meal in Italy- Rome still awaits tomorrow!
Heading south but some misdirection meant we ended up next to Lake Tarimasino at Castel de Lago -another lovely town! Bought truffles and cheese at a great little food shop full of local produce. Had lunch at a little trattoria- gnocchi and truffles for 6 euro and prawns with spaghetti for 8 euro.Nice Canadians arrived and we chatted for a while.
Reached Orvieto and we intend to look around there before dropping off the car- blown the budget by booking in at an old monastery!Lovely place if a little overheated. D having a little lie down while I do this.
Not had a bad meal in Italy- Rome still awaits tomorrow!
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Florence and beyond
Spent a day in Florence visiting the Medici tombs , science museum and leather shops near San Lorenzo. Locals said this was the best place to go to buy. Found prices and quality OK. Returned to Bacchus where they kindly let us in despite no reservation-nice people there and good food and prices. Just another night in paradise at the B and B a party going on when we returned!Gave us cakes and wine to compensate for the hour of noise of a raucous TV and laughter.No problems sleeping with earplugs and wine!
Collected the hire car from Avis just up the road from our B and B and were entertained by naive Australians who thought they needed a car in central Florence!
Trying to get a refund- he was born in Italy and should have known better!
Booked a hotel on the web unsure of its location- Dale was unhappy as it was only 40k out of Florence in Chianti region. Turns out it is lovely and the local fair is on this weekend. Street market and food tastings of the local produce-buy a ticket for unlimited food and wine all to raise money for a childrens hospital. Great vibe happy people and not many tourists!San Giovese in Panzano is a lovely hotel an easy drive out of Florence.We have a Fiat Piunto which is cute but not as zippy as the Citroen we had in France. Heading south toward Orvieto tomorrow after we watch the GP in a local bar this evening. Will have to barrack for Ferrari or be lynched?Weather turned cold so finally wearing coats etc. we have lugged with us.
Collected the hire car from Avis just up the road from our B and B and were entertained by naive Australians who thought they needed a car in central Florence!
Trying to get a refund- he was born in Italy and should have known better!
Booked a hotel on the web unsure of its location- Dale was unhappy as it was only 40k out of Florence in Chianti region. Turns out it is lovely and the local fair is on this weekend. Street market and food tastings of the local produce-buy a ticket for unlimited food and wine all to raise money for a childrens hospital. Great vibe happy people and not many tourists!San Giovese in Panzano is a lovely hotel an easy drive out of Florence.We have a Fiat Piunto which is cute but not as zippy as the Citroen we had in France. Heading south toward Orvieto tomorrow after we watch the GP in a local bar this evening. Will have to barrack for Ferrari or be lynched?Weather turned cold so finally wearing coats etc. we have lugged with us.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Florentine entertainment?
Looked for a restaurant near the b and b for dinner. One too noisy with heavy loud music so went across the road to a quieter place with waiter and price list outside-seemed like good choices so in we went. Ordered our mushroom and rocket bruschetta and steaks for mains along with the house red. Finished entree and some of our main course when a giant kerfuffle behind me-Dale saw the lot- all I saw was the chef legging it across the road and a man being wrestled to the ground in the doorway.
Turns out he had eaten and drunk and attempted to do a runner wirhout paying. They hauled him back and 3 people stood behind him as he produced credit cards ( they expired in 1999)-no point arguing with him and he was let go! Staff explained this is not uncommon in Italy and they gave us a free drink to compensate for the disturbance to our meal-very kind.Dale then pretended to do the same thing to entertain the staff a bit- they were a bit shaken by it all.Good meal reasonable cost and nice staff at Bacchus restaurant!
B and B seems OK good internet access is a bonus!Blaring TV at 1030 pm is not!
Turns out he had eaten and drunk and attempted to do a runner wirhout paying. They hauled him back and 3 people stood behind him as he produced credit cards ( they expired in 1999)-no point arguing with him and he was let go! Staff explained this is not uncommon in Italy and they gave us a free drink to compensate for the disturbance to our meal-very kind.Dale then pretended to do the same thing to entertain the staff a bit- they were a bit shaken by it all.Good meal reasonable cost and nice staff at Bacchus restaurant!
B and B seems OK good internet access is a bonus!Blaring TV at 1030 pm is not!
More gorgeousness
Sadly left La Spezia- a nice town with a great hotel (My Hotel) about 1km from train.Handy internet cafe and train schedule made last blog shorter than I would have liked.
Managed 4 out of the 5 villages as weather was predicted to be poor so we gave our 2 day ticket with a day still on it to 2 young Australians from Bathurst who were about to set off. The walk was great- excellent 20 degree weather and sunny created a sweat on the more difficult parts - went from south to north not to have sun in our faces-still all those yrs of walking with Deb and Jan stood me in good stead. Dale sometimes forgets his legs are a lot longer than mine- he seemed surprised I could keep up with him!Caught the train back to La Spezia from Varessa after a well deserved beer on the waterfront. All very picturesque and a very happy crowd from everywhere.
French lady (my age) was on the train and was very glamorous in her color cooordinated sportswear, jewellery, scarf etc.Put her lipstick on and was every bit a medel for Vogue on the crowded train while her husband in jeans and teeshirt remained impassive. ( like a lot of men accompanying their partners in Europe)Dale says women are amused by trivialities-easily amused??
Back in La Spezia had another excellent seafood and steak meal at reasonable cost tho I did want to try some Montalcino red wine- similar to Oz style heavy red which was expensive at 20E.
The train to Lucca was fine as usual and we arrived about midday. What a lovely town. From the station we walked about 1.5k to our accommodation we booked on the net. Turned out to be a B and B (San Ferdinandino) with bathroom down the hall,nice people, breakfast on a tray in the room,expresso machine in the hall and very clean but old.
Had a good lunch at Avini which had been suggested -a group was there who were doing economics and language courses in Lucca-Brazilian and Americans nice people.
Explored the town-cathedrals,shops etc very lovely.Saw toyshop with wonderful automaton type toys, skaters,merry go rounds and ballonists No time to find it again!
Walked along the wall at dusk and went to a reccommended restaurant ( Gigi) and had a great meal starting with a tasty mushroom and zuccini pudding ( mousse like) with a creamy sauce. Then Dale had steak and I had veal with tomato and caper sauce-another terrific meal-
67E was a good price for accommodation so we ignored the prepacked croissant and had breakfast at a local pasticceria we had already spotted.4E for 2 coffees and cakes!Off to Florence on the train 2 hr gap between trains so hurried to station-learnt to use automatic ticket machine as there was a long queue. Rang Valdo from the train as he has always told us how great Lucca is and we agree entirely.
Florence station -decided to wing accommodation- internet prices better than phoning up e.g. 95 E compared to 120 quoted on phone.About to find an internet point when a sweet old man with a namecard and details of his B and B said he had a room available. He grabbed my case and off we went thru the crowded station and past St Maria Novella toward the river- ended up on the 2nd floor of and old palazzo and into a room with a bathroom for us across the corridor.Clean and 75E per night in the thick of things cant be bad. Bed good and room spacious with a view of the river.
Walked our feet off this afternoon after a chicken and vege lunch. Locals had it and we asked for the same- got the last serves of it- very delicious with fresh sprigs of oregano on top.Revisited the Duomo , San Lorenzo and the Ponte Vecchio with all the jewellery shops- pales after seeing Dubai gold souk!Crowded and noisy after our last few days in Italy- spoilt I guess.Leather here in vast quantities will be hard to resist.
Off to dinner now I know not where-we seem to have the gods smiling on us today.
My cough is getting better-hope Dale does not succumb!
Managed 4 out of the 5 villages as weather was predicted to be poor so we gave our 2 day ticket with a day still on it to 2 young Australians from Bathurst who were about to set off. The walk was great- excellent 20 degree weather and sunny created a sweat on the more difficult parts - went from south to north not to have sun in our faces-still all those yrs of walking with Deb and Jan stood me in good stead. Dale sometimes forgets his legs are a lot longer than mine- he seemed surprised I could keep up with him!Caught the train back to La Spezia from Varessa after a well deserved beer on the waterfront. All very picturesque and a very happy crowd from everywhere.
French lady (my age) was on the train and was very glamorous in her color cooordinated sportswear, jewellery, scarf etc.Put her lipstick on and was every bit a medel for Vogue on the crowded train while her husband in jeans and teeshirt remained impassive. ( like a lot of men accompanying their partners in Europe)Dale says women are amused by trivialities-easily amused??
Back in La Spezia had another excellent seafood and steak meal at reasonable cost tho I did want to try some Montalcino red wine- similar to Oz style heavy red which was expensive at 20E.
The train to Lucca was fine as usual and we arrived about midday. What a lovely town. From the station we walked about 1.5k to our accommodation we booked on the net. Turned out to be a B and B (San Ferdinandino) with bathroom down the hall,nice people, breakfast on a tray in the room,expresso machine in the hall and very clean but old.
Had a good lunch at Avini which had been suggested -a group was there who were doing economics and language courses in Lucca-Brazilian and Americans nice people.
Explored the town-cathedrals,shops etc very lovely.Saw toyshop with wonderful automaton type toys, skaters,merry go rounds and ballonists No time to find it again!
Walked along the wall at dusk and went to a reccommended restaurant ( Gigi) and had a great meal starting with a tasty mushroom and zuccini pudding ( mousse like) with a creamy sauce. Then Dale had steak and I had veal with tomato and caper sauce-another terrific meal-
67E was a good price for accommodation so we ignored the prepacked croissant and had breakfast at a local pasticceria we had already spotted.4E for 2 coffees and cakes!Off to Florence on the train 2 hr gap between trains so hurried to station-learnt to use automatic ticket machine as there was a long queue. Rang Valdo from the train as he has always told us how great Lucca is and we agree entirely.
Florence station -decided to wing accommodation- internet prices better than phoning up e.g. 95 E compared to 120 quoted on phone.About to find an internet point when a sweet old man with a namecard and details of his B and B said he had a room available. He grabbed my case and off we went thru the crowded station and past St Maria Novella toward the river- ended up on the 2nd floor of and old palazzo and into a room with a bathroom for us across the corridor.Clean and 75E per night in the thick of things cant be bad. Bed good and room spacious with a view of the river.
Walked our feet off this afternoon after a chicken and vege lunch. Locals had it and we asked for the same- got the last serves of it- very delicious with fresh sprigs of oregano on top.Revisited the Duomo , San Lorenzo and the Ponte Vecchio with all the jewellery shops- pales after seeing Dubai gold souk!Crowded and noisy after our last few days in Italy- spoilt I guess.Leather here in vast quantities will be hard to resist.
Off to dinner now I know not where-we seem to have the gods smiling on us today.
My cough is getting better-hope Dale does not succumb!
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
La Belle Italia
Arrived Bergamo airport after fabulous view of the Alps peeking thru clouds. Were entertained hugely by a couple of arrivals nearby- a girl in red patent high heels, overalls and lots of bare flesh- customs had hauled her in for a chat and an eyeful I think!Her companion was a chap in polyester jacket who looked like her pimp- they cuddled etc. all the way to Milan in the bus,
Again Milan station impressed us with its size and architecture one of Mussolini's creations- still the trains here are great- Como in 1/2 hour trip. Scammed some directions to the ferry and hopped on. Beautiful weather if a little misty and we arrived at Argegno hoping our hotel was not too far up the hill!Never fear it was on the lakeside and lovely. 2 nights ws not enough there! Took the ferry for a brief trip to Bellagio a gorgeous touristy town and left with mixed feelings loking forward to our next adventure.Train to Venice terrific. Stayed out of the town in an old villa. Bus stopped outside to and from Venice- excellent accommodation and staff. Added bonus was the cheap and cheerful restaurant over the road a museum of all manner of tools, Instruments Wurlitzer jukebox etc. Good cheap food and wine and very convenient.Headed off to Venice and visited Canareggio and Accademia and vaporettoed up the Grand Canal as you do- lots of tourists and great weather again.
Left for Ravenna an overnighter to see the mosaics wonderfula as I remembered them- even Dale thought they were OK.
Off to La Spezia and have walked the 4 of the 5 villages today. Lucca tomorrow.
Again Milan station impressed us with its size and architecture one of Mussolini's creations- still the trains here are great- Como in 1/2 hour trip. Scammed some directions to the ferry and hopped on. Beautiful weather if a little misty and we arrived at Argegno hoping our hotel was not too far up the hill!Never fear it was on the lakeside and lovely. 2 nights ws not enough there! Took the ferry for a brief trip to Bellagio a gorgeous touristy town and left with mixed feelings loking forward to our next adventure.Train to Venice terrific. Stayed out of the town in an old villa. Bus stopped outside to and from Venice- excellent accommodation and staff. Added bonus was the cheap and cheerful restaurant over the road a museum of all manner of tools, Instruments Wurlitzer jukebox etc. Good cheap food and wine and very convenient.Headed off to Venice and visited Canareggio and Accademia and vaporettoed up the Grand Canal as you do- lots of tourists and great weather again.
Left for Ravenna an overnighter to see the mosaics wonderfula as I remembered them- even Dale thought they were OK.
Off to La Spezia and have walked the 4 of the 5 villages today. Lucca tomorrow.
Wednesday, October 10, 2007
Trains and boats and Planes ( and a bus)
Had our quiet last few gays in England with Keith and Carol. Visited antique complex in a local village where there was an amazing selection of old and not so old goodies.Think Camberwell antique market and multiply by 10!
Nothing grabbed me enough to buy it and so had a quick trip to the hardware for the blokes-D wanted to look and price light switches-touch type we haven't seen in Oz. Managed to spend at the adjacent homewares shop and get a doonah with sheeting on one side with brocade on the other-quite pretty and suitable for us. This has been posted home as we cannot lug it around Italy.
K and C dropped us at Stansted after a bad night's sleep for us both.Stress of early start and catching planes I guess.Up at 5 and on the road by 530-saw the aftermath of a serious accident truck on its side and a smashed car - luckily we weren't earlier and entangled in it or later when emergency services would have blocked the road completely!
We made it with time to spare as usual and checked in thru secrity ( shoes off again!) and o to the half full plane for Bergamo. Had a stunning flight across the Swiss and Italian Alps. Snowy peaks peeking thru the clouds and great scenery glaciers and tiny valley villages. Looked for the remains of neolithic men and mammoths coming out of the snow-one up side of global warming??
Arrived early in Bergamo and fluked a bus into Milan a few mites after getting thru the drug dogs and immigration without a hitch.Arrived at the amazing station-one of Mussolini's great achievements bought some tickets for Como and some food to eat n the track. Half hour train trip fine and then a walk to the ferry terminal. Fortunately some NZ people had a map of how to get there and we followed them. This was not a good move as they were lunching but told us where to head and we managed to get a ferry to Argegno ( next was 2 hrs later.)Had a great trip on the front deck thru magnificent (if a little misty) scenery. Weather fine and cool-perfecto!Hotel Villa Belvedere is gorgeous-on the edge of the lake with pleasnt rooms without being too flash!Great terrace outside and lovely dining and lounge rooms for guests. Decided to try the dining room. Excellent decision- chef IS the menu- he tells you what is available and also asks you what you feel like. D and I both were a little red meat deprived after England so had steak. Prosciutto and cantaloupe entree was good with ripe sweet melon and steaks were terrific. Mine cooked with large mushrooms came with excellent cauliflour and potato was terrific!This augered well for breakfast and we were not disappointed!Croissants,muesli,juices,good coffee and all the trimmings were available.Off to the bank then to Bellagio for lunch. Again a lovely spot and a great lunch. Italy takes its food seriously and does not rip off its tourists compared to UK. Feeling like England is poor value and so far Italy has shown this to be true ( similar prices to France)
Off towards Venice tomorrow and we know we will come back here- a scenic wonder -no museums in sight and fairly undemanding for tourists-just lay back on the ferry and walk around the picturesque villages. Great place to unwind!
Nothing grabbed me enough to buy it and so had a quick trip to the hardware for the blokes-D wanted to look and price light switches-touch type we haven't seen in Oz. Managed to spend at the adjacent homewares shop and get a doonah with sheeting on one side with brocade on the other-quite pretty and suitable for us. This has been posted home as we cannot lug it around Italy.
K and C dropped us at Stansted after a bad night's sleep for us both.Stress of early start and catching planes I guess.Up at 5 and on the road by 530-saw the aftermath of a serious accident truck on its side and a smashed car - luckily we weren't earlier and entangled in it or later when emergency services would have blocked the road completely!
We made it with time to spare as usual and checked in thru secrity ( shoes off again!) and o to the half full plane for Bergamo. Had a stunning flight across the Swiss and Italian Alps. Snowy peaks peeking thru the clouds and great scenery glaciers and tiny valley villages. Looked for the remains of neolithic men and mammoths coming out of the snow-one up side of global warming??
Arrived early in Bergamo and fluked a bus into Milan a few mites after getting thru the drug dogs and immigration without a hitch.Arrived at the amazing station-one of Mussolini's great achievements bought some tickets for Como and some food to eat n the track. Half hour train trip fine and then a walk to the ferry terminal. Fortunately some NZ people had a map of how to get there and we followed them. This was not a good move as they were lunching but told us where to head and we managed to get a ferry to Argegno ( next was 2 hrs later.)Had a great trip on the front deck thru magnificent (if a little misty) scenery. Weather fine and cool-perfecto!Hotel Villa Belvedere is gorgeous-on the edge of the lake with pleasnt rooms without being too flash!Great terrace outside and lovely dining and lounge rooms for guests. Decided to try the dining room. Excellent decision- chef IS the menu- he tells you what is available and also asks you what you feel like. D and I both were a little red meat deprived after England so had steak. Prosciutto and cantaloupe entree was good with ripe sweet melon and steaks were terrific. Mine cooked with large mushrooms came with excellent cauliflour and potato was terrific!This augered well for breakfast and we were not disappointed!Croissants,muesli,juices,good coffee and all the trimmings were available.Off to the bank then to Bellagio for lunch. Again a lovely spot and a great lunch. Italy takes its food seriously and does not rip off its tourists compared to UK. Feeling like England is poor value and so far Italy has shown this to be true ( similar prices to France)
Off towards Venice tomorrow and we know we will come back here- a scenic wonder -no museums in sight and fairly undemanding for tourists-just lay back on the ferry and walk around the picturesque villages. Great place to unwind!
Monday, October 8, 2007
Goodbye England
Have had a quiet time since arriving back from London- gearing up for the final foray of luggage etc.Caught up on washing and general posting back of excess goods as we don't want to lug everything around Italy on trains etc. so we are down to the bare minimum.Books are my weakness-15kg luggage limits are difficult for long trips. Coming back to Oz should not be too bad as we have a 20kg limit on hold luggage and hand luggage as well.
Went to a village called Eye yesterday- flint and brick houses and lovely out of the way place with good antique shops and one of the few churches in England left with some original screens and statuary after the Puritans and Reformation had been through- noone really knows why it was left intact- good to see though. Dominating the village is an original keep of a Norman castle built 1 yr after William the Conquereor came- Australian European history is so short comparatively.We must conserve what is left if we can.Thatched cottages and windmills are rare up here and we saw both on our trip. carol was after some fabric in Eye as there is a good shop there run by an eccentric.
Loking forward to some good Italian food and hope the weather is fine at Como our first stop.
Went to a village called Eye yesterday- flint and brick houses and lovely out of the way place with good antique shops and one of the few churches in England left with some original screens and statuary after the Puritans and Reformation had been through- noone really knows why it was left intact- good to see though. Dominating the village is an original keep of a Norman castle built 1 yr after William the Conquereor came- Australian European history is so short comparatively.We must conserve what is left if we can.Thatched cottages and windmills are rare up here and we saw both on our trip. carol was after some fabric in Eye as there is a good shop there run by an eccentric.
Loking forward to some good Italian food and hope the weather is fine at Como our first stop.
Friday, October 5, 2007
Adventure in London ctd
Off to the Globe Theatre reconstruction- terrific guide ( ?aspiring actress) showed us around explaining the intracies of theatre production in Elizabethan times- all funded from a charity type organisation and a wonderful achievement. Exhibition of costumes and medieval intruments was also very interesting.Off over pedestrian bridge heading for the Courtald institute- ended up nr St pauls- drifted through Temple courtyards to Fleet St. What a peacful area for the lawyers etc. to work away from the bustle. The press was out in force outside Old Bailey as the Diana inquest is in full swing. Headed to Covent Garden- tourist mecca nowadays and thru the Theatre district to Somerset house where 2 wonderful exhibitions were on- Courtauld collection of Impressionist art and some religiious art collected by the man whose family invented Nylon? amazing quality and not too much of it.Then the Gilbert collection of decorative arts. Another American who had amassed a fortune and spent it on decorative arts- silverware, miniatures, mini mosaics which looked painted till you looked very closely to see tiny pieces of stone making up pictures etc.Gold doors from Russian churches, silver services from nobility ( flogging the family silver to pay death duties I guess?)Then home via the trusty underground.
Less eventful meal at a Thai restaurant and to bed. Breakfast had not improved. Headed to Kew Gardens- lovely weather and we had a great time- a Henry Moore exhibition was on and the gardens provided a terrific setting for his giant sculptures. Back to the hotel via Harrods- still over the top but had to see Dodi and Diana statue and Mohammed Al Fayads statue- there is a now middle eastern influence in the decor. We bought some great pistachio cakes for dinner on the way back to Thurston in the train(also some truffle stuffed ham and rolls). Keith and Carol met us and we slept well. Good to be out of flurry of London tho Pimlico was lovely area. The cathedral and church of St Mary at Bury awaited so C and I went in and she went to the records office and I went exploring. Caught up on washing and organising luggage for Italy.
Less eventful meal at a Thai restaurant and to bed. Breakfast had not improved. Headed to Kew Gardens- lovely weather and we had a great time- a Henry Moore exhibition was on and the gardens provided a terrific setting for his giant sculptures. Back to the hotel via Harrods- still over the top but had to see Dodi and Diana statue and Mohammed Al Fayads statue- there is a now middle eastern influence in the decor. We bought some great pistachio cakes for dinner on the way back to Thurston in the train(also some truffle stuffed ham and rolls). Keith and Carol met us and we slept well. Good to be out of flurry of London tho Pimlico was lovely area. The cathedral and church of St Mary at Bury awaited so C and I went in and she went to the records office and I went exploring. Caught up on washing and organising luggage for Italy.
Wednesday, October 3, 2007
Mad dogs and Englishwoman
Ha lovely day yesterday- off to see Duke of Wellingtons House where all the spoils of Napoleon's defeat at Waterloo and honours are displayed- everything from looted paintings to his saddle and toilet set. Of course his boots were there too!Most interesting insight into an historic figure- he had a lot of respect for Napoleon as an adversary.We had walked from Green Park tube across Green Park and were highly amused by the deck chairs awaiting occupancy on a grey day in London- all for 3 pounds per hour!Grey squirrels abounded and were very cute!After Apsley house wandered along Harmarket and into Trafalgar square trying to recall our old haunts- seems to be less traffic in London and about the same nos of people we remember.Hotel near Pimlico tube in an area of Georgian houses converted to cheapy hotels-all 2-3 star ours is a 2/10 breakfast was ordinary with OJ tasting like cordial- white bread and Kellogs cornflakes- cheap and nasty 109 pounds per night!
Had an entertaining evening. Went to a Vietnamese restaurant where the clientele was fascinating- tourists like us and a threesome of 2 blokes about 40 and a woman of indeterminate age closely resembling Magda Szubanski- she had a foghorn upperclass English voice with which she prevented all other patrons from having a conversation- her pronouncements on the world- her drinking habits and her correspondance with Ian Bradley ( one of the Moors murderers)kept us all hysterical. dale was unable to speak while clutching his lips together to stop from laughing. This did not help my demeanour as I was in full view of her and had to restrain myself from hysterical giggling- very difficult. Finally they left and the whole restaurant laughed out loud- some Americans thought she was drunk, mad or both! We explained she was just a certain type of English Hooray Henrietta - no restraint as they consider the rest of the world beneath them or are oblivious to their effect on others.Today we went to the Globe Theatre where they have reconstructed the original- great tour guide and very interesting to us.
Off to the Courtauld Gallery to see collection great impressionists and some good religious art- another collection of decrative art in the Gilbert collection was also lovely- a swan made of silver - done so it resembled feathers was amazing.
Liberty's was our finald stop and we are off to Kewe tomorrow as the weather looks good.
Had an entertaining evening. Went to a Vietnamese restaurant where the clientele was fascinating- tourists like us and a threesome of 2 blokes about 40 and a woman of indeterminate age closely resembling Magda Szubanski- she had a foghorn upperclass English voice with which she prevented all other patrons from having a conversation- her pronouncements on the world- her drinking habits and her correspondance with Ian Bradley ( one of the Moors murderers)kept us all hysterical. dale was unable to speak while clutching his lips together to stop from laughing. This did not help my demeanour as I was in full view of her and had to restrain myself from hysterical giggling- very difficult. Finally they left and the whole restaurant laughed out loud- some Americans thought she was drunk, mad or both! We explained she was just a certain type of English Hooray Henrietta - no restraint as they consider the rest of the world beneath them or are oblivious to their effect on others.Today we went to the Globe Theatre where they have reconstructed the original- great tour guide and very interesting to us.
Off to the Courtauld Gallery to see collection great impressionists and some good religious art- another collection of decrative art in the Gilbert collection was also lovely- a swan made of silver - done so it resembled feathers was amazing.
Liberty's was our finald stop and we are off to Kewe tomorrow as the weather looks good.
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Railway entertainment
Off to Kent via London on trusty British rail. Visiting old wotk colleague of Dales and then into a small hotel in London.
Thurston to London was highly emtertaining due to the fellow passengers- out there boys off for a wild time in London already half inebriated but very humerous at 12 midday. dale covets one of their pale pink teeshirts. They made numerous loo trips ( not together! one complaining he had a bladder the size of a wasp. A good line I thought.Off to kent after braving the underground and into our old stamping ground of Gravesend. Walked around a much altered streetscape and then to the pub to await our friend. Off to a great little Italian place in Rochester with Rob and Gill for a most entertaining evening> Seemed as though 30 years had not passed!
Back into London after Rob drove us past our old house Trees bigger and windows changed but still cannot change suburban British architecture.
Trains delayed on our line but did not impede us greatly but there were very angry locals still waiting at 10am for a peak hour train!Believe this is not uncommon.Hotel is clean and we are 3 storeys up so far so good.270 dollars seems a lot to pay for no lift and basic room and breakfast but this is par for the course here - cheap if anything!No wonder the tourists are not thick on the ground- Paris much better value!Weather grey and damp but not cold so good for museums and galleries. Off to kewe gardens when fine tomorrow.
Thurston to London was highly emtertaining due to the fellow passengers- out there boys off for a wild time in London already half inebriated but very humerous at 12 midday. dale covets one of their pale pink teeshirts. They made numerous loo trips ( not together! one complaining he had a bladder the size of a wasp. A good line I thought.Off to kent after braving the underground and into our old stamping ground of Gravesend. Walked around a much altered streetscape and then to the pub to await our friend. Off to a great little Italian place in Rochester with Rob and Gill for a most entertaining evening> Seemed as though 30 years had not passed!
Back into London after Rob drove us past our old house Trees bigger and windows changed but still cannot change suburban British architecture.
Trains delayed on our line but did not impede us greatly but there were very angry locals still waiting at 10am for a peak hour train!Believe this is not uncommon.Hotel is clean and we are 3 storeys up so far so good.270 dollars seems a lot to pay for no lift and basic room and breakfast but this is par for the course here - cheap if anything!No wonder the tourists are not thick on the ground- Paris much better value!Weather grey and damp but not cold so good for museums and galleries. Off to kewe gardens when fine tomorrow.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Norwich
A smallish town on the edge of a river with small boats moored along it. 26 churches made of flintstone in a small area and some pretty Victorian architecture.
Tudor buildings and flintsone remnants of priories and city walls abound.Many horrible 60 70's buildings have spoilt some of its potential charm. Went to an archaelogical dig and restoration of a 1400's merchant,s house- very interesting to see restoration of an almost intact building and the process.Wool was big here- traded with Europe.
Quiet day included wandering the market- lots of greasy fish and chips etc. well patronised by the locals.
Interesting town but not a must see.
Managed to post papers etc home and load will be lighter for Italy.
Keiths son and fiancee came up from Kent today for the day.Had duck a l'orange for dinner- very nice meal.
Weather finer and supposed to be 20 degrees all week when we are in London. Having a massage tomorrow before heading to Kent and London for more adventures.
Tudor buildings and flintsone remnants of priories and city walls abound.Many horrible 60 70's buildings have spoilt some of its potential charm. Went to an archaelogical dig and restoration of a 1400's merchant,s house- very interesting to see restoration of an almost intact building and the process.Wool was big here- traded with Europe.
Quiet day included wandering the market- lots of greasy fish and chips etc. well patronised by the locals.
Interesting town but not a must see.
Managed to post papers etc home and load will be lighter for Italy.
Keiths son and fiancee came up from Kent today for the day.Had duck a l'orange for dinner- very nice meal.
Weather finer and supposed to be 20 degrees all week when we are in London. Having a massage tomorrow before heading to Kent and London for more adventures.
Thursday, September 27, 2007
Au revoir France Hello UK!
Limoges was an interesting town- not a great tourist destination which was part of its charm. Had a shishkebab for lunch in a Turkish restaurant reminiscent of many at home-off to explore l and find our porcelaine museum- sensible in the rain!
Navigation is a real challemge when angled streets and unreadable street names combine! Fraught tired driver did not help! Anyhow managed to find our destination and it was a great collection of porcelain from all over the world tho predominately Limoges- some exquisite exhibition pieces in white bisque were outstanding as were giant Minton animals etc. Collectors with plenty of cash did well if they had an obsession-we are the benificiaries when they donate it to the state!
All in a magnificent old 3 storey house in well designed display cases. At the beginning a film showong the process of making and foring various types of porcelaine- Limoges has a special clay which is ideal for it.The hotel we atyed at ( Hotel de la Paix) did not disappoint- 65 euro with a traditional croissant, baguette and hot chocolate breakfast yumm..
There was aslo a mini museum on the hotel- gramophones automatons organs records etc. collected by te patron over 40 odd years- facinating stuff (thanks trip advisor)
Off to the airport for our flight to Stansted and our friends.
Weather in UK not great cooler and windier than we were used to!
Caught up with our washing and then off to Norwich and Norfolk for a 2 day whiz around. Visited a reconstruction of and Iceni village and then Dale visited the Lancia place he has dealt with over the years. Off to downtown Norwich- pretty town and then to our motel like hotel for bed and dinner- usual story in UK ordinary food at extraordinary prices!Yesterday went to Walsingham where a woman had vision to make a church in 800 or so- now a pilgrimage site and healing centre- quite ontersting village and ruined priory.Then to thetford where there is an extraordinary collection of sreet organs and steam machinery.All is in excellent working condition and all the organs go off in sequence with all the dolls and figures doing their thing to the music.Then the Wurlitzer performance! What can I say a chap in Burberry socks, pinstriped suit and fake tan doing a Liberace on the organ!Talented player doing amazing things with his feet and 3 keyboards- all televised CCTV onto a screen alongside the stage- glittering lights and elderly audience was surreal!
Off to some sanity ? at Sandringham the Queen's Christmas residence- lovely decor in the rooms and attendants who were very entertaining and informative.Great garden very lovely-including a giant Buddha bought back by Edward VII when he went off on a trip with Mrs Keppel ( Camilla's grandmother) one of his many mistresses.
Interesting and amusing day!
Off to explore Norwich now!Dale has a library card (to use this computer) for the first time in his life!
Navigation is a real challemge when angled streets and unreadable street names combine! Fraught tired driver did not help! Anyhow managed to find our destination and it was a great collection of porcelain from all over the world tho predominately Limoges- some exquisite exhibition pieces in white bisque were outstanding as were giant Minton animals etc. Collectors with plenty of cash did well if they had an obsession-we are the benificiaries when they donate it to the state!
All in a magnificent old 3 storey house in well designed display cases. At the beginning a film showong the process of making and foring various types of porcelaine- Limoges has a special clay which is ideal for it.The hotel we atyed at ( Hotel de la Paix) did not disappoint- 65 euro with a traditional croissant, baguette and hot chocolate breakfast yumm..
There was aslo a mini museum on the hotel- gramophones automatons organs records etc. collected by te patron over 40 odd years- facinating stuff (thanks trip advisor)
Off to the airport for our flight to Stansted and our friends.
Weather in UK not great cooler and windier than we were used to!
Caught up with our washing and then off to Norwich and Norfolk for a 2 day whiz around. Visited a reconstruction of and Iceni village and then Dale visited the Lancia place he has dealt with over the years. Off to downtown Norwich- pretty town and then to our motel like hotel for bed and dinner- usual story in UK ordinary food at extraordinary prices!Yesterday went to Walsingham where a woman had vision to make a church in 800 or so- now a pilgrimage site and healing centre- quite ontersting village and ruined priory.Then to thetford where there is an extraordinary collection of sreet organs and steam machinery.All is in excellent working condition and all the organs go off in sequence with all the dolls and figures doing their thing to the music.Then the Wurlitzer performance! What can I say a chap in Burberry socks, pinstriped suit and fake tan doing a Liberace on the organ!Talented player doing amazing things with his feet and 3 keyboards- all televised CCTV onto a screen alongside the stage- glittering lights and elderly audience was surreal!
Off to some sanity ? at Sandringham the Queen's Christmas residence- lovely decor in the rooms and attendants who were very entertaining and informative.Great garden very lovely-including a giant Buddha bought back by Edward VII when he went off on a trip with Mrs Keppel ( Camilla's grandmother) one of his many mistresses.
Interesting and amusing day!
Off to explore Norwich now!Dale has a library card (to use this computer) for the first time in his life!
Saturday, September 22, 2007
La belle France
LOvely weather continues for us- we had a great day in Perigueux a very interetsing Medieval town in one part and a Roman town in another.
Tourist info was excellent and we spent 2 hours in a living musueum of medieval buildings, beautifully preserved and restored without being too obvious. The shops were excellent as was the local market with mounds of fruit and vegetables. Lots of cheeses from the area and enormous amounts of fois gras the local speciality_ made by force feeding ducks and geese large amounts of corn until their livers are fatty. Each farm has its secret recipe for making fois gras from the livers and sell it world wide. We tasted it and it is like a smooth liver pate -garlic and herbs add to the flavour.
The local school children were fundraising for an end of school trip and were so charming that we donated happily_ wild costumes and cute accents as they all learn English here.
On the way to the Roman ruins found a trope doiel gallery and workshop. A local artist has done much work at Versailles and other grand places mimicking marble, woods, frescoes and all manner of other scenery on flat surfaces. Amazing display of work - pretend doors with coats hanging on them scenes outside, bookshelves- even a garage tool wall - must ve known Dale was coming!Off to the Roman ruins again fairly well preserved and the violent history of the area seems to have been repeated again and again- Gauls vs Romans, Catholics vs Huguenots and Gestapo vs the locals So sad to see a resitance memorial showing a statue of people with hands tied behind their backs after execution.Thursday was a local Hautefort day; Visited the chateau and gardens- a stunning day again. Chateau furnished with mixture of styles as burnt in 1968 -reproduction walnut woodwork was amazingly like the old photos of the original and cleverly done.Gardens were topiried and Italian style with swirling pattern box hedges and flowers in between- all overlooking the most superb countryside of walnut groves, hazlenut trees and cornfields; Sent home 11kg of books, clothes etc;Hit Nathalie and Arnands for another 5 course gastronomic delight. I had duck this time and Dale had the triflette we still passed on the cheese and left room for the fig tart this time.Friday we saw our Dutch friends in their house about 30mins drive away- navigation there was interesting thru little villages. The beautiful weather continued and we had lunch at the golf course after Dale and Rudy had played 9 holes. Katy and I walkesd around the Limerat and met most of the locals enroute bonjouring all the way.Local church is 11th century with bells and clocktower. Someone moved into the village and proceeded to climb the tower and muffle the bells as he was disturbed by the noise!Needless to say he did not win any friends doing this- such arrogance§
Have now driven thru rain to Limoges and are about to get lunch somewhere and possibly visit the porcelain museum here;Back in UK Sunday.
Tourist info was excellent and we spent 2 hours in a living musueum of medieval buildings, beautifully preserved and restored without being too obvious. The shops were excellent as was the local market with mounds of fruit and vegetables. Lots of cheeses from the area and enormous amounts of fois gras the local speciality_ made by force feeding ducks and geese large amounts of corn until their livers are fatty. Each farm has its secret recipe for making fois gras from the livers and sell it world wide. We tasted it and it is like a smooth liver pate -garlic and herbs add to the flavour.
The local school children were fundraising for an end of school trip and were so charming that we donated happily_ wild costumes and cute accents as they all learn English here.
On the way to the Roman ruins found a trope doiel gallery and workshop. A local artist has done much work at Versailles and other grand places mimicking marble, woods, frescoes and all manner of other scenery on flat surfaces. Amazing display of work - pretend doors with coats hanging on them scenes outside, bookshelves- even a garage tool wall - must ve known Dale was coming!Off to the Roman ruins again fairly well preserved and the violent history of the area seems to have been repeated again and again- Gauls vs Romans, Catholics vs Huguenots and Gestapo vs the locals So sad to see a resitance memorial showing a statue of people with hands tied behind their backs after execution.Thursday was a local Hautefort day; Visited the chateau and gardens- a stunning day again. Chateau furnished with mixture of styles as burnt in 1968 -reproduction walnut woodwork was amazingly like the old photos of the original and cleverly done.Gardens were topiried and Italian style with swirling pattern box hedges and flowers in between- all overlooking the most superb countryside of walnut groves, hazlenut trees and cornfields; Sent home 11kg of books, clothes etc;Hit Nathalie and Arnands for another 5 course gastronomic delight. I had duck this time and Dale had the triflette we still passed on the cheese and left room for the fig tart this time.Friday we saw our Dutch friends in their house about 30mins drive away- navigation there was interesting thru little villages. The beautiful weather continued and we had lunch at the golf course after Dale and Rudy had played 9 holes. Katy and I walkesd around the Limerat and met most of the locals enroute bonjouring all the way.Local church is 11th century with bells and clocktower. Someone moved into the village and proceeded to climb the tower and muffle the bells as he was disturbed by the noise!Needless to say he did not win any friends doing this- such arrogance§
Have now driven thru rain to Limoges and are about to get lunch somewhere and possibly visit the porcelain museum here;Back in UK Sunday.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
Wildlife in the French Countryside
In wondefful downtown Perigueux today stunning weather 20° C sunny arrived in Limoges after a flying journey on the French rail system; car at the airport as the alamo office closed sat pm lovely taxi driver indicated the correct route to take_ despite this we drove around Limoges villages for a while to get the correct road out_ good for Dale to practice his LH drive technique_ scary at first seeing cars approaching in the left lane_ even for the navigating passenger!All well and we reached Hautefort to get directions at the tourist office to Chassaing where our house is - it looked even better than the internet photos and Mike and Elaine Moore (expat UK) were most kind and hospitable giving us a welcome cup of tea.Suggested a restaurant in the next villag for dinner_ lovely cute decor and an amazing meal aperitif 5 courses and wine for 60 dollars for 2i e vge soup,salade and pate entree,roast turkey with beer and grapes,massivplate of veges cheese platter pear tart to die for So much we did not eat much the next day really lovely home cooking_ Perigord specialities of duck gizzard salad and duck confit were passed on too fatty we thought_Visited Hautefort Sunday after catching up on washing.The ,medical museum there was fascinating in an old hospice run by the nuns for the poor. Babies could be abandoned there thru a revolving cradle so no one saw the mother.Black death Dr and nun models in a reconstructed ward of the 17th century started the display then dental,pharmacy and doctors surgeries from all eras were shown with actual offices donated and loaned by people in the area_very interesting,informative place.Monday was not fine so had a rest day around the village. Coming out of the papershop D spied an Aston Martin V12
most unexpected sight in a tiny village. The owner turned out to be a local who took us for coffee and to show us his house nearby. He is in Paris now and we hope to catch up before we leave.Dinner at Nathalies again as we felt we could cope better now by not eating bread etc.Had another lovely meal and chatted to a personable Dutch couple who invited us to play golf with them. Forecast not good till Fri so it is planned for then. Tues set off for Rocamadour and Collanges Rouges which we visited 30 yrs ago. Both are still beautiful places but commercialism is rife!Crazy numbers of shops galleries etc in both some full of junk souvenirs others with interesting goodies none of which I need.Dale managed the drive on the motorway at 130k hit the vermouth and bed.
Today have bought the most tasty and expensive sheep cheeses from a chrming saleswoman at the market here and embarking on the tourist walks this afternoon,looks a great town so far.
most unexpected sight in a tiny village. The owner turned out to be a local who took us for coffee and to show us his house nearby. He is in Paris now and we hope to catch up before we leave.Dinner at Nathalies again as we felt we could cope better now by not eating bread etc.Had another lovely meal and chatted to a personable Dutch couple who invited us to play golf with them. Forecast not good till Fri so it is planned for then. Tues set off for Rocamadour and Collanges Rouges which we visited 30 yrs ago. Both are still beautiful places but commercialism is rife!Crazy numbers of shops galleries etc in both some full of junk souvenirs others with interesting goodies none of which I need.Dale managed the drive on the motorway at 130k hit the vermouth and bed.
Today have bought the most tasty and expensive sheep cheeses from a chrming saleswoman at the market here and embarking on the tourist walks this afternoon,looks a great town so far.
Friday, September 14, 2007
Aurevoir Paris
After the museum yesterday we finally made the Louvre today.Dale has succumbed to the charms of Paris- not that he'd ever admit it!My call- he says- whenever I suggest something-a it of a change of attitude from the first museum and church resistant days in Paris. Anyhow years of car related diversion of the mind deserves some reward-fair is fair, I feel.
Sick of being long suffering facilitator while resenting the mind elsewhere of my huband- worrying more about car related matters than other things which I feel should have more priority.
D survived the Louvre visit and I enjoyed it- the objects d'arte section was the first priority and we managed to see some French painting and napoleons apartments as wel. Memories dim after 30 years and the size of the Louvre is something I had forgotten- we only saw a fraction of it in 5 hours!
Off on the bateau mouche for a cruise up and down the Seine- great photo then home to pack. Chatted to a chap going to the Rugby tonight had an English shirt on so I presumed he is English- turns out he was French- from the country barracking for them against the Sth Africans.packed for Chassaing- don'tknow ifwell have access to email so this may be the last one for a while.Car OK and Accommodation is OK- checked by phone. Off to dinner tonight at the good place over the road. Said goodbye to Helene and told her how we appreciated her hospitality-would definitely stay here again.
Sick of being long suffering facilitator while resenting the mind elsewhere of my huband- worrying more about car related matters than other things which I feel should have more priority.
D survived the Louvre visit and I enjoyed it- the objects d'arte section was the first priority and we managed to see some French painting and napoleons apartments as wel. Memories dim after 30 years and the size of the Louvre is something I had forgotten- we only saw a fraction of it in 5 hours!
Off on the bateau mouche for a cruise up and down the Seine- great photo then home to pack. Chatted to a chap going to the Rugby tonight had an English shirt on so I presumed he is English- turns out he was French- from the country barracking for them against the Sth Africans.packed for Chassaing- don'tknow ifwell have access to email so this may be the last one for a while.Car OK and Accommodation is OK- checked by phone. Off to dinner tonight at the good place over the road. Said goodbye to Helene and told her how we appreciated her hospitality-would definitely stay here again.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Thursday's adventures
Have arrived back from a lovely day out- went to the Q de Orsay again to see the Vollard exhibition- he was an astute art dealer who bought and exhibited many impressionists in their early yrs and also recognised Picasso early.Cezanne, VanGogh, Renoir, Degas,Gauguin,Matisse were all represnted along with lesser known artists ( at least by me)Vollard wrote monographs on their work and publicised them well in the US and OS-all in his own and their interest of course. Paintings came from all over the world for this show US, London,Russia as well s some from the Paris collection. One from Russia a lovely Cezanne flower painting looked as tho someone had scratched the letter R over it defacing it slightly?restored after terrible damage. Not too big for D to cope with and not too crowded, so a success!
Walked along the Seine looking at the most amazing antiquities shops- furniture, fossils and even a stuffed platypus and stuffed heads!No needto go to museums to see such things.
Found our good lunch place of the left bank-had a salad and fish and D had the smoked salmon and steak- we both had the Normandy dessert-chesnut puree, icecream and calvados.Very good value and seems to have non touristy food.(32e incl 2 Heinekens)Saw a collision between an unwary pedestrian and lady on pushbike on a crossing-bike riders here tend to ignore traffic lights as they do in Oz
Metroed to the Marmotten to see the Monets there- a flash area of Paris with lovely parks and general affluent air. A rich collector had gathered all manner of beautiful things in his lovely house- illuminated manuscripts, alterpieces,sculpture along with paintings of Monet he had bought or people donated to the museum. Monets son had left his pallette to it also along with family memorobilia and paintings.Many pictures done at Giverney were there so it was good to see the show after visiting the garden.A Berthe Moriset show on too as a bonus.
Walking back to the metro there were bike riders doing a London Paris ride-including a lady of 70+ -good on her- leading the pack of all ages,shapes and sizes.Good humoured banter as they tangled with pedestrians,cars and other bikes. Traffic seems less than we remember -all small cars and motor and pushbikes with no helmets.Home to coffee-no restaurant tonight need a small plain meal after last night's effort!Booked in for tomorrow though at Cheri Bibi.
Walked along the Seine looking at the most amazing antiquities shops- furniture, fossils and even a stuffed platypus and stuffed heads!No needto go to museums to see such things.
Found our good lunch place of the left bank-had a salad and fish and D had the smoked salmon and steak- we both had the Normandy dessert-chesnut puree, icecream and calvados.Very good value and seems to have non touristy food.(32e incl 2 Heinekens)Saw a collision between an unwary pedestrian and lady on pushbike on a crossing-bike riders here tend to ignore traffic lights as they do in Oz
Metroed to the Marmotten to see the Monets there- a flash area of Paris with lovely parks and general affluent air. A rich collector had gathered all manner of beautiful things in his lovely house- illuminated manuscripts, alterpieces,sculpture along with paintings of Monet he had bought or people donated to the museum. Monets son had left his pallette to it also along with family memorobilia and paintings.Many pictures done at Giverney were there so it was good to see the show after visiting the garden.A Berthe Moriset show on too as a bonus.
Walking back to the metro there were bike riders doing a London Paris ride-including a lady of 70+ -good on her- leading the pack of all ages,shapes and sizes.Good humoured banter as they tangled with pedestrians,cars and other bikes. Traffic seems less than we remember -all small cars and motor and pushbikes with no helmets.Home to coffee-no restaurant tonight need a small plain meal after last night's effort!Booked in for tomorrow though at Cheri Bibi.
Gardens and more
After Monets garden decided to try a local restaurant reccommended by Helene-over the street from our door. Rocked up at 630too early dinner started at 815! Delightful staff who knew a little English and with my french managed to sort out what the dishes were-lovely cooking-Dale had raw salmon in sesame oil-v good while I chose the vela cutlet with saladandchutney of pearsetc.Entrees were prawns done in hili and coriander and pate campagne served from a giant pot- as much as you wanted!I hd strawbwrries with basil and Dale had tiramisu for dessert. All for 24e per head plus wine and water cost-terrific cooking so we went back last night after visiting Versailles (more later)
Versailles is stillfabulou-more open than last time we were there-amzing opulence everywhere-no wonder the peasants were poor!
Hikedat least 10k to petite and grande trianon and the arm where M Antoinette played at being normal-very cute place away from the big palace. Had animals there and locals can visit farm and gardens free-lots of grannies with little ones.Gorgeous cool fine day again.-perfect!Arrivd home 7 ish after seeing the amazing sight across the river of 1000 Scots waving flags etc playing bagpipes following a double decker bus along the edge of the river- a soccer match on that night against France!Truly a scary noisy sight( Scots won )Possiby intimidated the opposition with their wild noisy crazine!
Off to Cher Bibi again. Ordered the raw fish entree then the beef casserole type dish- cevich ws great- lime juie marinated fish with oriander and veges.Dale had pupkin and ginger soup which was also good.Beef asserole ws slow cookedblack looking with spicyundertones yum! Lots of it. D ordered mash with his and I a green sald ( a good move as it turned out)Full fter mais we couln't resist oering tarte tatin (apple pie) just to see what it was like. Big tactical error as we were soo full and we didn't need much breakfast this morning! Off to quai dorsay and louvre today and marmottan to see the Monets in the next session with a boat cruise thrown in - tomorrow our last day then off to the country!
Versailles is stillfabulou-more open than last time we were there-amzing opulence everywhere-no wonder the peasants were poor!
Hikedat least 10k to petite and grande trianon and the arm where M Antoinette played at being normal-very cute place away from the big palace. Had animals there and locals can visit farm and gardens free-lots of grannies with little ones.Gorgeous cool fine day again.-perfect!Arrivd home 7 ish after seeing the amazing sight across the river of 1000 Scots waving flags etc playing bagpipes following a double decker bus along the edge of the river- a soccer match on that night against France!Truly a scary noisy sight( Scots won )Possiby intimidated the opposition with their wild noisy crazine!
Off to Cher Bibi again. Ordered the raw fish entree then the beef casserole type dish- cevich ws great- lime juie marinated fish with oriander and veges.Dale had pupkin and ginger soup which was also good.Beef asserole ws slow cookedblack looking with spicyundertones yum! Lots of it. D ordered mash with his and I a green sald ( a good move as it turned out)Full fter mais we couln't resist oering tarte tatin (apple pie) just to see what it was like. Big tactical error as we were soo full and we didn't need much breakfast this morning! Off to quai dorsay and louvre today and marmottan to see the Monets in the next session with a boat cruise thrown in - tomorrow our last day then off to the country!
Tuesday, September 11, 2007
Getting lost and injured in Paris
Panic not -nothing serious-last night decided to venture up the hill for dinner-tourist menus everywhere so chose a Pizza joint presuming 12euro could not be too bad with minestrone to start. French style Italian is a bit less tomatoey and blander than we are used to, maybe budget was tight on ingredients?? Anyhow, it was a disappointment, so off we went on a long walk as it ws a lovely evening-sun setting,pink clouds and litup Eiffel tower in the distance, alas no camera with us!
Took a very devious route home thru alleys and streets passing some much better restaurants ( and more expensive)which we will check out. Ended up about 3 km from our place and walked the boulevard along with the local prostitutes and their pimps. As there is a Rugby world Cup on there were plenty of potential customers- the Scots were wearing kilts and travelling in well lubricated packs enjoying themselves.One had a red Indian feathered headress on with a kilt- bonjouring all and sundry while weaving along -truly a fearsome sight.
Today have done Monet's Garden-however nearly lost my arm in the Metro door-quick and the dead- even if you are still letting people and prams etc. off-no real damage.
Trip to Giverney uneventful except for the conversation of some American ladies behind us-one upping each other-one had had lunch with Mrs Ferragamo!Garden as fabulous as I expected- gorgeous day for it.The house is also beautiful lots of character and charm.Not too many people there to enjoy it.
Back in Paris we walked thru the throng and bought patisserie to have with coffee back a home.Found a great shop where colourful accessories sold and antique perfume bottles etc.sold in another lovely shop.Off to find a decent place for dinner!
Took a very devious route home thru alleys and streets passing some much better restaurants ( and more expensive)which we will check out. Ended up about 3 km from our place and walked the boulevard along with the local prostitutes and their pimps. As there is a Rugby world Cup on there were plenty of potential customers- the Scots were wearing kilts and travelling in well lubricated packs enjoying themselves.One had a red Indian feathered headress on with a kilt- bonjouring all and sundry while weaving along -truly a fearsome sight.
Today have done Monet's Garden-however nearly lost my arm in the Metro door-quick and the dead- even if you are still letting people and prams etc. off-no real damage.
Trip to Giverney uneventful except for the conversation of some American ladies behind us-one upping each other-one had had lunch with Mrs Ferragamo!Garden as fabulous as I expected- gorgeous day for it.The house is also beautiful lots of character and charm.Not too many people there to enjoy it.
Back in Paris we walked thru the throng and bought patisserie to have with coffee back a home.Found a great shop where colourful accessories sold and antique perfume bottles etc.sold in another lovely shop.Off to find a decent place for dinner!
Sunday, September 9, 2007
Paris ctd
What luxery to have some time in Paris-Sat lovely day so decided to do another LP walk- this time thru the Marais on the Right bank looking at the grand houses built by the aristocracy-most are built around ,so their grandeur is less apparent nowadays.
The musee of the middle ages on the left bank in an old abbots palace was our morning stop-old locks, jewellery, pilgrims medals and great tapestries. Lot of sculpture and remnants of churches wrecked along with collections of ivory boxsides finly carved and reliqueries with bits of saints in them in silver and gold- even one with Christ umbilicus!
near the Sorbonne so lots of activity- mothers with their fresher children buying books etc.Great clothes deals and lunches 13 e for 3 good courses over here.
Sun had a lazy read this am and then off to see Marie Antoinettes prison - great display and explanations - horrible vibe though. To recover went for a beer in Place de la Dauphine a quiet little triangular spot with a nice cafe. Metro home and the bells of Sacre Couer ringing overhead while I type.What adventures next week- have some shops I need to revisit and Versailles and Monets garden await as does Q d'Orsay special exhibition.
The musee of the middle ages on the left bank in an old abbots palace was our morning stop-old locks, jewellery, pilgrims medals and great tapestries. Lot of sculpture and remnants of churches wrecked along with collections of ivory boxsides finly carved and reliqueries with bits of saints in them in silver and gold- even one with Christ umbilicus!
near the Sorbonne so lots of activity- mothers with their fresher children buying books etc.Great clothes deals and lunches 13 e for 3 good courses over here.
Sun had a lazy read this am and then off to see Marie Antoinettes prison - great display and explanations - horrible vibe though. To recover went for a beer in Place de la Dauphine a quiet little triangular spot with a nice cafe. Metro home and the bells of Sacre Couer ringing overhead while I type.What adventures next week- have some shops I need to revisit and Versailles and Monets garden await as does Q d'Orsay special exhibition.
Friday, September 7, 2007
Walkabout in Paris
We had a non museum day to save Dale's sanity- a brain can only absorb so much!
Pere Lachaise cemetery sounded interesting and was a short metro ride away so off we went-luckily weather kind-cool and fine-my sort of weather for walking.
Decided to go woth the flow- very peaceful - hazard of being bruised by falling chestnuts along certain roads- followed a kind lady's direction to Oscar Wilde's grave- ironically covered with love messages from women in lipstick!
The grave of Piaf not far away and we happened upon Gramme's monument ( we'd seen another bronze statue exactly the same of him at Art et Metiers Museum)- having a bronze is a multi purpose exercise!Lots of other tombs of families etc. with some interesting designs-one chap crawling out of granite!A funeral was happening at the crematorium- slight burning smell in the air reminded us of our mortality!
The next walk was through the arae of the right bank- following a walk in the Lonely Planet guide-amazing shops with everything from paintings, written documents, medals, lined arcades around the Palais Royale Garden-followed the map through several other arcades with glass roofs and decoration- rock shops, walking stick shops ,dress designer,vintage postcard,art books and second hand clothes shops-amazing stuff!
No room to carry anything and ironically I lost? my purse <10 euro so no problem with buying-still we still have time for me to change my mind and post stuff home- clothes etc. aren't too bad cost wise- beautiful shoes 180e and great winter gear 100e jacket-not outrageous.Good summer flats to be had at 5-10e depending on design.Wish I had Anthea's feet and body with me!
Patisserie on the way home undid the good calorie balance!
A good day-will attack the left bank tomorrow- see if no purse will attract pickpockets??
Pere Lachaise cemetery sounded interesting and was a short metro ride away so off we went-luckily weather kind-cool and fine-my sort of weather for walking.
Decided to go woth the flow- very peaceful - hazard of being bruised by falling chestnuts along certain roads- followed a kind lady's direction to Oscar Wilde's grave- ironically covered with love messages from women in lipstick!
The grave of Piaf not far away and we happened upon Gramme's monument ( we'd seen another bronze statue exactly the same of him at Art et Metiers Museum)- having a bronze is a multi purpose exercise!Lots of other tombs of families etc. with some interesting designs-one chap crawling out of granite!A funeral was happening at the crematorium- slight burning smell in the air reminded us of our mortality!
The next walk was through the arae of the right bank- following a walk in the Lonely Planet guide-amazing shops with everything from paintings, written documents, medals, lined arcades around the Palais Royale Garden-followed the map through several other arcades with glass roofs and decoration- rock shops, walking stick shops ,dress designer,vintage postcard,art books and second hand clothes shops-amazing stuff!
No room to carry anything and ironically I lost? my purse <10 euro so no problem with buying-still we still have time for me to change my mind and post stuff home- clothes etc. aren't too bad cost wise- beautiful shoes 180e and great winter gear 100e jacket-not outrageous.Good summer flats to be had at 5-10e depending on design.Wish I had Anthea's feet and body with me!
Patisserie on the way home undid the good calorie balance!
A good day-will attack the left bank tomorrow- see if no purse will attract pickpockets??
Thursday, September 6, 2007
Encounters today
Ha a fascinating day yesterday in the arts and materials museum-where art and engineering collided.
Focaults pendulum,Lavoisiers laboratory along with numerous exhibits of every technology from weaving to glassmaking etc etc.Fantastic!
Old and new cars,rockets,old and new planes-all well explained. Building of churches,engines along with some social comment on theimpact of it all.Lastexhibits including the pendulumwere in a decommisiioned church on platforms.
Automaton display amazing- canaries in gold cages, M antoinnette playing a piano moving pictures and acrobats etc.You could press a button for some and they would do their thing.Then we were there for a display by the experts-hd no ticket for it but they didn't care!Hooray for the kind French attitude generally.Everything was demonstrated- a clock with moving music parts the king had owned-bellows and machinery parts were explained-I understood bits.None of this stuff in Oz!
Today off toRodin's house a garden a lovely small museum- then walked down Champs Elysee to Arc de T.
Hd a brief encounter with a gypsy who was confused when I tried to give a gold ring he had found at my feet back to him! Gendarme(Plainlothes) carted him off explaining to us he was a thief and ring was fake gold-not hard to tell!
Thought to go to Picasso but it was closed for renos when we got there after visiting Place de Vosges-gorgeous square well patronised by locals. Think pheremones are in the air here- courting couples young and old everywhere in clinches.Shock horror!Hd tourist 2 courses 12.50euro nr Bastille
Thought the Pompidou close by so checked it was late closing. Amazing stuff-esp installation Annette Messenger Look her up on web Weird butintersting.Home after the trip to supr market and patisserie. Good sleep tonight
Focaults pendulum,Lavoisiers laboratory along with numerous exhibits of every technology from weaving to glassmaking etc etc.Fantastic!
Old and new cars,rockets,old and new planes-all well explained. Building of churches,engines along with some social comment on theimpact of it all.Lastexhibits including the pendulumwere in a decommisiioned church on platforms.
Automaton display amazing- canaries in gold cages, M antoinnette playing a piano moving pictures and acrobats etc.You could press a button for some and they would do their thing.Then we were there for a display by the experts-hd no ticket for it but they didn't care!Hooray for the kind French attitude generally.Everything was demonstrated- a clock with moving music parts the king had owned-bellows and machinery parts were explained-I understood bits.None of this stuff in Oz!
Today off toRodin's house a garden a lovely small museum- then walked down Champs Elysee to Arc de T.
Hd a brief encounter with a gypsy who was confused when I tried to give a gold ring he had found at my feet back to him! Gendarme(Plainlothes) carted him off explaining to us he was a thief and ring was fake gold-not hard to tell!
Thought to go to Picasso but it was closed for renos when we got there after visiting Place de Vosges-gorgeous square well patronised by locals. Think pheremones are in the air here- courting couples young and old everywhere in clinches.Shock horror!Hd tourist 2 courses 12.50euro nr Bastille
Thought the Pompidou close by so checked it was late closing. Amazing stuff-esp installation Annette Messenger Look her up on web Weird butintersting.Home after the trip to supr market and patisserie. Good sleep tonight
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
Paris 2
Yesterday started using the open double decker bus to get our bearings- there are 4 routes an a 28 euro ticket givs you 2 days to do them- you can hop on and off as you please. The most popular route took us along the Champs Elysee around Eiffel Tour and past Notre Dame and surrounding streets- impressive layout-the powers during 19th century certainly mde the most of it-using grand plans of giant boulevards and visual accents at each end to great effect.Difficult to appreciate overall on foot how clever they were.We saw bits of Paris that we had not seen before and were impressed by its overall grandeur.Today did the other 2 bits- saw the new opera house at Bastille and the new development at Bercy-finance dept another modern grand building.The new national library recently finished looks good too.Reminiscent of the old Gas and fuel towers was the Montparnesse tower which stands out like a sore thumb when you see a panorama of Paris-bad 70s architecture-what were they thinking??.Angelus is ringing from Sacre Couer as I type this.
Anyhow after left bank tour we had lunch in a restaurant recommended by a friend ( Jan N) and hd a very pleasant lunch of steak with pepper sauce with a glass of red wine.Off to join the throng at Notre Dame after wandering through the sts of the left bank-(will get back there).Sun was out so the windows were magnificant.Then over to St Chappelle-wow!The old chapel of the kings of France was amazing- colours,gold and superb stained glass.Not too big, this is beautiful. Easy to imagine court ladies and gents in brocades and silk in here!Like a wonderful stage set but 800 yrs old. Thank Goodness the revolutionaries did not destroy it!
Being a tourist is excellent in this fine cool weather- let's hope it holds!
We have christened our orange card metro passes which will be worn out by the end of the week.
Anyhow after left bank tour we had lunch in a restaurant recommended by a friend ( Jan N) and hd a very pleasant lunch of steak with pepper sauce with a glass of red wine.Off to join the throng at Notre Dame after wandering through the sts of the left bank-(will get back there).Sun was out so the windows were magnificant.Then over to St Chappelle-wow!The old chapel of the kings of France was amazing- colours,gold and superb stained glass.Not too big, this is beautiful. Easy to imagine court ladies and gents in brocades and silk in here!Like a wonderful stage set but 800 yrs old. Thank Goodness the revolutionaries did not destroy it!
Being a tourist is excellent in this fine cool weather- let's hope it holds!
We have christened our orange card metro passes which will be worn out by the end of the week.
Sunday, September 2, 2007
Paris
Finally hit Paris lunchtime yesterday after a flatout week in UK-last blogpossibly incohetent-rushed due to pressure of packing etc.Wild taxiride from the airport to find our accommodation is wonderful-on the edge of the Sacre Couer hill and ith a wonderful landlady who likes her guests toaccess her pool and garden-all small but lovely.Room small with kitchenette- microwave and hot plate ith all goodies needed to do simple meals-milk coffee water an soft drinks supplied-she brought us a fresh orange juice as we looked a little tired and stressed when we arrived- CdeG queues were not good but all OK in the end.Showered and slept then read papers etc. Off to the local supermarket for supplies-how much wine and cheese can people consume? At least100 varieties of cheese and winw along with allother liqueur and spirits in a small supermarket in a fairly poor area-could't see brandy but made do with brandy euro- not bad!Bought a variety of camembert,a blue which stinks out the fridge and a boring gouda type.51 euro bought usbasic bits,saladetc which we thought wsnt bad compRED TO iRELAND AND eNGLAND.
Area has lots of Africans and a few beggars around but seems OK.
Off to musee d'orsay today along with half of Paris as it is the one free day permonth-less difficult as used sense with queues and it moved quickly.Amazing place converted from an old railway station-room after room of impressionists and amazing furniture etc.Almost like having toomuch chocolate-fantastique! Had walked in so decided to metro home- chose a station uphill from where we live nd so wandered downhill thru Sacrecoer ground with tourists and buskers galore.Bells were ringing and scenery superb.
Dale hs befriended the cat here so he is a bit homesick but the delights of Paris should distract him.
Hopefullywether will remain calm and pleasant perfect for tourists.Have bought our first tartes for desserttonight yumm!Excuse spacing and caps but very small computer!
Area has lots of Africans and a few beggars around but seems OK.
Off to musee d'orsay today along with half of Paris as it is the one free day permonth-less difficult as used sense with queues and it moved quickly.Amazing place converted from an old railway station-room after room of impressionists and amazing furniture etc.Almost like having toomuch chocolate-fantastique! Had walked in so decided to metro home- chose a station uphill from where we live nd so wandered downhill thru Sacrecoer ground with tourists and buskers galore.Bells were ringing and scenery superb.
Dale hs befriended the cat here so he is a bit homesick but the delights of Paris should distract him.
Hopefullywether will remain calm and pleasant perfect for tourists.Have bought our first tartes for desserttonight yumm!Excuse spacing and caps but very small computer!
Friday, August 31, 2007
A crazy week
Our feet hardly touched the ground this week.
Monday off to Sheffield to stay with friends of Keith and Carol-a delightful couple who live in an amazingly gorgeous house.Felt like a princess for the first 24 hours till I got used to the opulance of the furniture etc.
Had a good day in Bakewell with K and C after we walked around Hardwick Hall which was closed-very pleasant heather covered moors and great peak district scenery. More suicidal sheep here too!The cheeky Bakewell ducks are still there in greater numbers than ever.
Next day off to Dale's relatives and older couple who live on the edge of Sheffield- again great outlook over the moors and beautiful scenery. Had a lovely lunch with them and caught up on the last 25 years- very pleasnt. Then we picked up a hire car and drove to Cambridge-did the bus trip -park and ride in on a bus for £2- keeps most traffic out. Most people seem to ride bikes there -medieval cities are not designed for cars. Great place to see-lots of interesting buildings and greens.Found an excellent B and B within walking distance of the centre (Canterbury House)and had a twilght walk to find dinner. Went to pub est 1758- which had good meals- River Cam along with punts and lots of wandering students in happy groups made C a terrific experience. This am went to see Kings College est before Henry VIII came to power but finished by him- amazing building-guess that is what it was meant to do!!
Headed to Ely- another great cathedral- diferent style but intersting to drive over the fens with their flat fields and occasional windmill till remaining. These were only drained 200 yrs ago- everyone punted around that area as it was swampy.Back at Thurston now -packed for Paris and France.
Monday off to Sheffield to stay with friends of Keith and Carol-a delightful couple who live in an amazingly gorgeous house.Felt like a princess for the first 24 hours till I got used to the opulance of the furniture etc.
Had a good day in Bakewell with K and C after we walked around Hardwick Hall which was closed-very pleasant heather covered moors and great peak district scenery. More suicidal sheep here too!The cheeky Bakewell ducks are still there in greater numbers than ever.
Next day off to Dale's relatives and older couple who live on the edge of Sheffield- again great outlook over the moors and beautiful scenery. Had a lovely lunch with them and caught up on the last 25 years- very pleasnt. Then we picked up a hire car and drove to Cambridge-did the bus trip -park and ride in on a bus for £2- keeps most traffic out. Most people seem to ride bikes there -medieval cities are not designed for cars. Great place to see-lots of interesting buildings and greens.Found an excellent B and B within walking distance of the centre (Canterbury House)and had a twilght walk to find dinner. Went to pub est 1758- which had good meals- River Cam along with punts and lots of wandering students in happy groups made C a terrific experience. This am went to see Kings College est before Henry VIII came to power but finished by him- amazing building-guess that is what it was meant to do!!
Headed to Ely- another great cathedral- diferent style but intersting to drive over the fens with their flat fields and occasional windmill till remaining. These were only drained 200 yrs ago- everyone punted around that area as it was swampy.Back at Thurston now -packed for Paris and France.
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Everygirls' nightmare
This is specially for the gals- Keith and Dale took me to Bury St Edmunds this am as they had secret mens' business with the car.
Last week I purchased a blouse at Marks and S and it was not good on so I want to change it.Searched the handbag for the card carrying wallet-gasp! Couldn't find it-what a nightmare- no money apart from £3 in change.Needed my card to change the blouse so no go.Shopping without option to buy is very negative.
Wandered around Bury looking at various shops and went to Waitrose where I had to buy Dale a new toothbrush as his had vanished from the side pocket of the case en route from Dublin. Being unfamiliar with the local currency at a crowded checkout to get the toothbrush-counting it out coin by coin to a sweet patient young thing was the second horror-why is a 10p piece larger than a 20p ahrr!
Last week I purchased a blouse at Marks and S and it was not good on so I want to change it.Searched the handbag for the card carrying wallet-gasp! Couldn't find it-what a nightmare- no money apart from £3 in change.Needed my card to change the blouse so no go.Shopping without option to buy is very negative.
Wandered around Bury looking at various shops and went to Waitrose where I had to buy Dale a new toothbrush as his had vanished from the side pocket of the case en route from Dublin. Being unfamiliar with the local currency at a crowded checkout to get the toothbrush-counting it out coin by coin to a sweet patient young thing was the second horror-why is a 10p piece larger than a 20p ahrr!
Saturday, August 25, 2007
Cork and beyond
Cork looks run down and dirty at first impression compared to the loveliness of green farms and vegetation in the west coast.Our journey to Cork from Kinsale following directions of our charming host in Kinsale was nerveracking to find parking- we did find some in the usual multistorey add on to shops.The wide streets and cute bridges seduced us in the end, and having 1/2 a day to fill after going as far as we could genealogy wise, improved our first impressions.
We had lunch in a rugby themed pub frequented by the local legal community- young buttoned up types hoeing their way thru beer and lots of carbohydrate- potatoes of all types. We chose the vege soup which was terific- hearty homemade and tasty.
Lots of signed rugby jumpers,flags and 1991 world cup match on TV completed the scene.
Off to the Cork jail- closed down 1920s but still a forbidding place- Pentridge style architecture and intact cells with life like dummies in and a good audio guide was a worthwhile experience- usual story- born poor you were in dire straits!Daniel o Connor's signature ws on a cell wall along with other recalcitrants who were Irish nationalists
Was a great walk back to town -good views of the whole place.Rendezvoused with Keith and Carol ( we had a seperate day).Headed to Cobh where we were booked in for a night. Missed the turn off and ended up in a town of small houses dominated by a cathedral almost on the water's edge-clean grey granite was a change from the city churches ( all that good fresh sea air?)Cute town where the Titanic last called before hitting the iceberg. Rang the B and B and the husband came to lead us thru the one way maze back to the band b about 3 km out of town in the country.Not a pretty house ( grey) the hostess was kind and chatty and suggested where we could eat. Rolled her eyes when we told her about Kinsale experience- probably unlicensed she thought.Rooms were clean, not glamourous but adequate.Had a bath- leaping around Cork on a warm day needed strong dose of water and bath gel- bliss!
Visited the Cobh heritage centre after a good breakfast- on the old railway station.
The displays of migrants' conditions in 1800's with sound effects , dark and a sloping floor were very well done. Models of sick vomitting people lying around in cabins of actual size gave an appreciation of horrible times they must have had when the sea was rough.Fortunately, smell was not imitated!
There were photos of the luxury ships of the day- first class conditions were amazingly sumptous-banquets, fine furniture, glass roofs and decoration++.
Models showed where the other classes and crew were housed-different story.Later 1950 liners' conditions were shown- similar to those I remember the country rels' cabins I saw as a child. Well worth visiting.
Off to our south coast drive to Wexford. Stopped at Waterford after diversion from highway due to a road accident. Did not bother with the crystal factory- good museum there- Viking remains, combs etc. in a well laid out display. Great audio guide again. Brought home how vulnerable these people were to invaders- Viking or British etc.Depending on religion- who was in power, abbeys,families castles were laid to ruin. Many relics of conflicts litter the coast- towers, churches and walls of now non existent settlements. Coastal scenery pleasant to drive through and roads a bit better than the west coast generally.Reached our destination at Killiane castle- another relic built in 1476 to whch a 1920 extension has been added- 3 storeys and no lift could challenge some case carrying people.Decoration English country house style and a lovely room overlooking sea and fields of green augered well.Recommended pub down the road served great Dublin bay prawns for dinner. Went for the farm walk after dinner- serious mud and midges!Saw the fat chooks and hot house with our breakfast tomatoes growing.Cows and a happy bull completed the livestock.
After a good sleep, packed and went to breakfast. Had excellent pancakes with maple syrup and bacon- not as nasty as you'd expect!The owner John Mertagh is allowed by his family to serve breakfast and is a delightful chap who invited us to climb the old tower before we left. There are plans to restore it and Irish tax Law allows people concessions to restore ancient properties, provided they are open for two hours a day to the public.I am not in love with heights but gave myself a good talking to and climbed the stone stairs about 2 ft wide- winding up it to the top. Rooms came off at intervals- musty and showing signs of years of neglect-on the roof were stone rafters and you could walk around the edge looking over the battlements- really interesting to look at the structure close up.
Called into Wexford for an internet check no flight problems! and wander- nice little place.
Took the scenic route thru the hills of Wicklow-green fields, trees and heather on the hills-lunched at a gourmet deli wine shop Learmonth -best -fresh baguette salad.excellent capuccino. on the miliatary trail put in by the British in 1700s to chase the Irish rebels.
Off we went- a trip to Dublin about 2 hrs away so we had time for a stop. Decided on Powerscourt garden as it was a lovely day and our guide to Ireland suggested it was the best garden to see.Had to agree- stunning layout-visit if you can.Amazing what lots of money and taste can do.Saw a lawn like green velvet-100s of yards wide and long with manicured plants and flower beds. Pet cemetery (horses and dogs)was idiosyncratic touch.After a good wander and lots of photos headed off to get to the airport by 7 for our flight home at 915pm. Roadworks on the freeway that circle Dublin meant we were delayed for an hour- a trip of 20 mins took 80mins. Car had to be returned at 7- no signs- general confusion but somehow ended up there at 615. No problems Still we were there at Ryan air counter first to check in. Flight delayed till 2255!Could've gone to Dublin for a few hours had we known.Had the usual airport boredom alleviated by watching a rugby match of Ireland vs Italy- desperation!
Flight Ok - chatted to a chap who is a BMW mechanic in Ireland ( from Ilford in Essex) which was pleasant.Arrived back in Thurston at 2 instead of midnight as anticipated.
Have done the washing this am in anticipation of a busy week up to Derbyshire, Sheffield and Cambridge before we head to France for 3 weeks next Sat.
We had lunch in a rugby themed pub frequented by the local legal community- young buttoned up types hoeing their way thru beer and lots of carbohydrate- potatoes of all types. We chose the vege soup which was terific- hearty homemade and tasty.
Lots of signed rugby jumpers,flags and 1991 world cup match on TV completed the scene.
Off to the Cork jail- closed down 1920s but still a forbidding place- Pentridge style architecture and intact cells with life like dummies in and a good audio guide was a worthwhile experience- usual story- born poor you were in dire straits!Daniel o Connor's signature ws on a cell wall along with other recalcitrants who were Irish nationalists
Was a great walk back to town -good views of the whole place.Rendezvoused with Keith and Carol ( we had a seperate day).Headed to Cobh where we were booked in for a night. Missed the turn off and ended up in a town of small houses dominated by a cathedral almost on the water's edge-clean grey granite was a change from the city churches ( all that good fresh sea air?)Cute town where the Titanic last called before hitting the iceberg. Rang the B and B and the husband came to lead us thru the one way maze back to the band b about 3 km out of town in the country.Not a pretty house ( grey) the hostess was kind and chatty and suggested where we could eat. Rolled her eyes when we told her about Kinsale experience- probably unlicensed she thought.Rooms were clean, not glamourous but adequate.Had a bath- leaping around Cork on a warm day needed strong dose of water and bath gel- bliss!
Visited the Cobh heritage centre after a good breakfast- on the old railway station.
The displays of migrants' conditions in 1800's with sound effects , dark and a sloping floor were very well done. Models of sick vomitting people lying around in cabins of actual size gave an appreciation of horrible times they must have had when the sea was rough.Fortunately, smell was not imitated!
There were photos of the luxury ships of the day- first class conditions were amazingly sumptous-banquets, fine furniture, glass roofs and decoration++.
Models showed where the other classes and crew were housed-different story.Later 1950 liners' conditions were shown- similar to those I remember the country rels' cabins I saw as a child. Well worth visiting.
Off to our south coast drive to Wexford. Stopped at Waterford after diversion from highway due to a road accident. Did not bother with the crystal factory- good museum there- Viking remains, combs etc. in a well laid out display. Great audio guide again. Brought home how vulnerable these people were to invaders- Viking or British etc.Depending on religion- who was in power, abbeys,families castles were laid to ruin. Many relics of conflicts litter the coast- towers, churches and walls of now non existent settlements. Coastal scenery pleasant to drive through and roads a bit better than the west coast generally.Reached our destination at Killiane castle- another relic built in 1476 to whch a 1920 extension has been added- 3 storeys and no lift could challenge some case carrying people.Decoration English country house style and a lovely room overlooking sea and fields of green augered well.Recommended pub down the road served great Dublin bay prawns for dinner. Went for the farm walk after dinner- serious mud and midges!Saw the fat chooks and hot house with our breakfast tomatoes growing.Cows and a happy bull completed the livestock.
After a good sleep, packed and went to breakfast. Had excellent pancakes with maple syrup and bacon- not as nasty as you'd expect!The owner John Mertagh is allowed by his family to serve breakfast and is a delightful chap who invited us to climb the old tower before we left. There are plans to restore it and Irish tax Law allows people concessions to restore ancient properties, provided they are open for two hours a day to the public.I am not in love with heights but gave myself a good talking to and climbed the stone stairs about 2 ft wide- winding up it to the top. Rooms came off at intervals- musty and showing signs of years of neglect-on the roof were stone rafters and you could walk around the edge looking over the battlements- really interesting to look at the structure close up.
Called into Wexford for an internet check no flight problems! and wander- nice little place.
Took the scenic route thru the hills of Wicklow-green fields, trees and heather on the hills-lunched at a gourmet deli wine shop Learmonth -best -fresh baguette salad.excellent capuccino. on the miliatary trail put in by the British in 1700s to chase the Irish rebels.
Off we went- a trip to Dublin about 2 hrs away so we had time for a stop. Decided on Powerscourt garden as it was a lovely day and our guide to Ireland suggested it was the best garden to see.Had to agree- stunning layout-visit if you can.Amazing what lots of money and taste can do.Saw a lawn like green velvet-100s of yards wide and long with manicured plants and flower beds. Pet cemetery (horses and dogs)was idiosyncratic touch.After a good wander and lots of photos headed off to get to the airport by 7 for our flight home at 915pm. Roadworks on the freeway that circle Dublin meant we were delayed for an hour- a trip of 20 mins took 80mins. Car had to be returned at 7- no signs- general confusion but somehow ended up there at 615. No problems Still we were there at Ryan air counter first to check in. Flight delayed till 2255!Could've gone to Dublin for a few hours had we known.Had the usual airport boredom alleviated by watching a rugby match of Ireland vs Italy- desperation!
Flight Ok - chatted to a chap who is a BMW mechanic in Ireland ( from Ilford in Essex) which was pleasant.Arrived back in Thurston at 2 instead of midnight as anticipated.
Have done the washing this am in anticipation of a busy week up to Derbyshire, Sheffield and Cambridge before we head to France for 3 weeks next Sat.
More B and B entertainment
The good the bad and the ugly-describes the sleep over situation in Ireland.
We had the ugly and bad when we happened upon the Rose of Tralee festival on the night we were staying at the inaptly (?ineptly)named Grand Hotel- a Victorian hotel expanded to the next county via rabbit warren corridors and small poorly finished rooms-locks that didn't work,poor outlook ( garbage bins)and no parking.The ugly was our first b and b where our hostess with a lovely garden and immaculate house looked as though we were a nuisance when we arrived- couldn't wait to get us out for a meal and grab our cash. ( Athulmney Manor nr Navan)
Good were The last Band B Killiane Castle nr Wexford, SeaMount farm nr Bantry and Sheedy's Country house hotel at Lisdoonvarna and Fort View House Kinvara.
We were very happy with Buswells in Dublin- a lovely hotel!
The ambivalent feelings we had were about Glebe House in Kinsale- clean and adequate with a highly entertaining hostess, who could talk under wet cement in a broad accent- calling on the Holy Mother of God with regularity- hard to escape from!
Our host at Kinsale with the Blarney was making a killing from unwary tourists who book on the internet- room clean enough but the house ( his family home ) was barely clean and breakfast slapdash.
Still, we all survived and we met some interesting people. Recommended and best value were SM farm and Killiane, Fort View. Hotels Buswells and Sheedy's Don't go near Serenaville Kinsale.if you have strong ears go to Glebe House at Cobh.
We had the ugly and bad when we happened upon the Rose of Tralee festival on the night we were staying at the inaptly (?ineptly)named Grand Hotel- a Victorian hotel expanded to the next county via rabbit warren corridors and small poorly finished rooms-locks that didn't work,poor outlook ( garbage bins)and no parking.The ugly was our first b and b where our hostess with a lovely garden and immaculate house looked as though we were a nuisance when we arrived- couldn't wait to get us out for a meal and grab our cash. ( Athulmney Manor nr Navan)
Good were The last Band B Killiane Castle nr Wexford, SeaMount farm nr Bantry and Sheedy's Country house hotel at Lisdoonvarna and Fort View House Kinvara.
We were very happy with Buswells in Dublin- a lovely hotel!
The ambivalent feelings we had were about Glebe House in Kinsale- clean and adequate with a highly entertaining hostess, who could talk under wet cement in a broad accent- calling on the Holy Mother of God with regularity- hard to escape from!
Our host at Kinsale with the Blarney was making a killing from unwary tourists who book on the internet- room clean enough but the house ( his family home ) was barely clean and breakfast slapdash.
Still, we all survived and we met some interesting people. Recommended and best value were SM farm and Killiane, Fort View. Hotels Buswells and Sheedy's Don't go near Serenaville Kinsale.if you have strong ears go to Glebe House at Cobh.
Wednesday, August 22, 2007
The south west of Ireland
After a great drive over the wild country- granite outcrops,heather hills and clifftop roads with even more death defying sheep, we arrived at gorgeous Bantry Bay coast and drove into Bantry town which has the most superb aspect overlooking the bay.
The B and B was on Goats head path- so we were expecting primitive area- how wrong we were-the best b and b so far- lovely house and excellent view with a great breakfast!Seamount Farm highly recommended should you be planning a trip to the area.
Again charming people gave us directions and the roads wound between hedgerowa full of wildflowers and fuschias.Off along the coast to Kinsale last night. Had to go to a cafe to get them to ring the owner to guide us- a real charmer with a Blarney stone influence. Bit like Fawlty towers but we slept well and had a good shower.
Kinsale is superb with lots of brightly coloured buildings and harbour that was very photogenic at dusk- mirrorlike water with boats of all sorts.Had a lovely salmon dinner at Jimmy Edwards Pub-woodpanelled and atmosheric with decent food.
Arrived in Cork this am to do a bit of genealogy on the Reeves' who allegedly came from here no luck so far.Cork is less pretty than we expected but still interesting.Off to be tourists now.
Weather fine and coolish- grat for travelling,
The B and B was on Goats head path- so we were expecting primitive area- how wrong we were-the best b and b so far- lovely house and excellent view with a great breakfast!Seamount Farm highly recommended should you be planning a trip to the area.
Again charming people gave us directions and the roads wound between hedgerowa full of wildflowers and fuschias.Off along the coast to Kinsale last night. Had to go to a cafe to get them to ring the owner to guide us- a real charmer with a Blarney stone influence. Bit like Fawlty towers but we slept well and had a good shower.
Kinsale is superb with lots of brightly coloured buildings and harbour that was very photogenic at dusk- mirrorlike water with boats of all sorts.Had a lovely salmon dinner at Jimmy Edwards Pub-woodpanelled and atmosheric with decent food.
Arrived in Cork this am to do a bit of genealogy on the Reeves' who allegedly came from here no luck so far.Cork is less pretty than we expected but still interesting.Off to be tourists now.
Weather fine and coolish- grat for travelling,
Monday, August 20, 2007
Touring
After a great b and b at Kinvara- headed up to Connemara-aroung Galway and |North to a rugged interesting region with lots of brave sheep on the roads-death defying grazing.
Cute villages and variable weather. Headed back to the hotel booked Sheedy's country house in Lisdoonvarna- had a supurb meal there and then a good night's sleep in a lovely spacious room. Headed to the Cliffs of Moher- a stunning place with a fantastic visitors centre showing the geological development and natural features of the area- a virtual reality show- you being a seagull or a fish depending if you were above or below water level. Well done.
Off south to Foyle where there is a museum about flying boats a blip of history aviation wise - a plane there along with film and uniforms etc. of the time -late 30's to mid 40's. The mouth of the Shannon was ideal and these were used to fly diplomats etc. bet UK and USA and the fist transatlantic crossings.
Off to out grand hotel in tralee- what a nightmare- Therose of tralee festival was on- out st blocked off and sat nav useless!Parked the car then walked and had our dinner-finally unpacked at 9pm after much shenanigans (A useful Irish word!)Woke at 630 to the sound of rolling metal beer kegs- after the bar music session the night before.
Have driven today thru the most beautiful lake/mountain scenery with sun!
Cute villages and variable weather. Headed back to the hotel booked Sheedy's country house in Lisdoonvarna- had a supurb meal there and then a good night's sleep in a lovely spacious room. Headed to the Cliffs of Moher- a stunning place with a fantastic visitors centre showing the geological development and natural features of the area- a virtual reality show- you being a seagull or a fish depending if you were above or below water level. Well done.
Off south to Foyle where there is a museum about flying boats a blip of history aviation wise - a plane there along with film and uniforms etc. of the time -late 30's to mid 40's. The mouth of the Shannon was ideal and these were used to fly diplomats etc. bet UK and USA and the fist transatlantic crossings.
Off to out grand hotel in tralee- what a nightmare- Therose of tralee festival was on- out st blocked off and sat nav useless!Parked the car then walked and had our dinner-finally unpacked at 9pm after much shenanigans (A useful Irish word!)Woke at 630 to the sound of rolling metal beer kegs- after the bar music session the night before.
Have driven today thru the most beautiful lake/mountain scenery with sun!
Friday, August 17, 2007
Hire cars !
Rocked up to Murrays the Erocar agent about 10 after a giant Buswells breakfast and a lovely walk- chaos rteigned- ;Lots of disgruntled customers waiting for cars and muliple harrassed staff!Not a car in sight- allegedly hold up at Shannon airport- retired to a coffee shop as you do and rang the hotel to put our packed luggage in the foyer so they could relet our rooms.Walked back to Buswells and cooled our heels till the car arrived about 3 oclock-a day wasted in Dublin esp as we wanted to get to Newgrange and see it in p.m. Finally got to newgrange after C negotiated the Dublin one way system using SaTNAV TOMTOM-staff understood out plight and put us in the first group for Fri a.m so we went to our grand sounding B and B- turned out to be clean but basic- landlady in the wrong job.
Slept well and set off early to newgrange- amazing neolithic tomb-most interesting and then we set off for Strokestown Museum and house- a run down Georgian house with intact furnishings and kitchen-lots of children with slack parents were touching furniture, books etc. and eating crisps. Grrr!
Famine museum interesting. Had great mushroom soup for lunch.
Off to Kinvarra - peak hour traffic at end slowed progress and small fine rain but not cold.Arrived at B and B- lovely- Fort View.Had a great meal at Keogh's Giant oysters and great steak.
Slept well and set off early to newgrange- amazing neolithic tomb-most interesting and then we set off for Strokestown Museum and house- a run down Georgian house with intact furnishings and kitchen-lots of children with slack parents were touching furniture, books etc. and eating crisps. Grrr!
Famine museum interesting. Had great mushroom soup for lunch.
Off to Kinvarra - peak hour traffic at end slowed progress and small fine rain but not cold.Arrived at B and B- lovely- Fort View.Had a great meal at Keogh's Giant oysters and great steak.
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Ireland- Dublin
Hit the road early with Keith and Carol to reach Stansted for the trip to Dublin on Ryan air-know our way round Stansted now!
Good flight and arrived to be well organised into a taxi with a lovely affable man who gave us good advice etc about Dublin. Our hotel surpassed my expectations- lovely room, excellent breakfast- all set in a group of Georgian houses- Buswell's is its name. The deal also includes 24hr bus passes which take in all the sites of Dublin on a hop on and hop off basis- so we took an orientation trip in the top of a double decker bus- the driver was extremely droll- making sick jokes and singing Molly Malone to us. Today went to Trinity college- again a clever young history graduate with a wry sense of humour took us thru the history and architecture of the college. We finished up seeing the book of Kells- an ancient illuminated manuscript- a personal wish of mine for many years- I was not disapponted. The lead up exhibition explaining the processes was interesting. Then thrill of seeing the library- Harry Potters Hogwarts library was modelled on it- the smell of old leatherbound volumes- pannelling etc.was terrific.
Off to another cultural experience at Guinness- again a very professional display of brewing and the ingredients for stout.Archivist searched unsuccessfully for my ggf's apprenticeship records there- We finished in the glasswalled bar on the 7th floor having a pint of the product-very pleasant and then we had no need for lunch!Off to explore more on foot- shops were very interesting-bookshops, food shops etc. then to meet George Reeves at the hotel- a possible relative on my father's side- a lovely man,so we set off to a couple of libraries and archives with him- again no luck!
Dinner in the bar of the hotel- food not bad as we expected-off to the countryside tomorrow.Weather cool with occasional shower-locals sick of rain they've had 64 days of it and no summer since April! Green is everywhere-intense beautiful and lush.
Good flight and arrived to be well organised into a taxi with a lovely affable man who gave us good advice etc about Dublin. Our hotel surpassed my expectations- lovely room, excellent breakfast- all set in a group of Georgian houses- Buswell's is its name. The deal also includes 24hr bus passes which take in all the sites of Dublin on a hop on and hop off basis- so we took an orientation trip in the top of a double decker bus- the driver was extremely droll- making sick jokes and singing Molly Malone to us. Today went to Trinity college- again a clever young history graduate with a wry sense of humour took us thru the history and architecture of the college. We finished up seeing the book of Kells- an ancient illuminated manuscript- a personal wish of mine for many years- I was not disapponted. The lead up exhibition explaining the processes was interesting. Then thrill of seeing the library- Harry Potters Hogwarts library was modelled on it- the smell of old leatherbound volumes- pannelling etc.was terrific.
Off to another cultural experience at Guinness- again a very professional display of brewing and the ingredients for stout.Archivist searched unsuccessfully for my ggf's apprenticeship records there- We finished in the glasswalled bar on the 7th floor having a pint of the product-very pleasant and then we had no need for lunch!Off to explore more on foot- shops were very interesting-bookshops, food shops etc. then to meet George Reeves at the hotel- a possible relative on my father's side- a lovely man,so we set off to a couple of libraries and archives with him- again no luck!
Dinner in the bar of the hotel- food not bad as we expected-off to the countryside tomorrow.Weather cool with occasional shower-locals sick of rain they've had 64 days of it and no summer since April! Green is everywhere-intense beautiful and lush.
Sunday, August 12, 2007
Prague
What a lovely city. Still showing signs of years of communism when away from the city centre and the tourist area, much refurbishment is occurring of elegant old buildings.
Dale had the flu for a couple of days but we had fine weather up to about 30 degrees.
First day visited the Mucha museum- terrific to learn more about an artist whose work I had admired for years-even Dale enjoyed seeing the theatre posters etc.
The medieval planning makes navigation difficult so we wandered happily through the picturesque streets along with thousands of other tourists all clutching maps. Our hotel was a tram ride from the centre though we walked in the 1.5 km the first day and home gain on our wits- I think 5km or so with some dodgy navigation- we did happen upon cute parks with old ladies in them and local activity so it was interesting. We also saw the TV tower which you can see from all over Prague close up- it has babies crawling up it ( actually sculptures) which is a bizarre concept- shouldn't surprise one in Kafka's hometown??
We went over the river to the castle and St Vitus's church ( Mucha had done one of the stained glass windows there)- superb gothic cathedral-worth a visit.Palace was bare but interesting and the torture chamber at D tower nearby was stomach turning- bad vibes+++.
Visited the Jewish area on Thursday- weren't meant to go in as there was a noisy American blocking the queue at the only place to buy tickets-spied through the wall at the overcrowded and overgrown gravestones under enormous trees. Had great lunch- cheeses and interesting breads with Stella Artois for a change instead of pilsner at Moules in the jewish area- great shops around here too- Cartier etc. plus classy tourist shops with exquisite glassware, garnets and crystals. Already have too much stuff so resisted temptation.Took lots of photos though!
Had not been to the fabled Wenceslas Square- only crossed it on the No 9 tram-so the last am went there strolled up to the National Museum and entered.Charming lady at the audioguides told us Casino Royale was filmed in the foyer- as the casino- certainly very beautiful decoration.
The displays were very interesting- meteorites, gemstones et. along with excellent ethnography displays from Bronze age through to medieval times-all well arranged and fascinating to us Time team fans! Zoology with the moa and woolly mammoth displays was also good tho the Australian animals were a bit threadbare-they need a decent ringtail possum which we would be glad to donate from our back yard!
Easyjet was fine both ways and we enjoyede our visit a lot.
Back in UK getting ready for the Irish trip on Tuesday- expecting cooler weather there-will be a change to have cold instead of heat and humidity.
Dale had the flu for a couple of days but we had fine weather up to about 30 degrees.
First day visited the Mucha museum- terrific to learn more about an artist whose work I had admired for years-even Dale enjoyed seeing the theatre posters etc.
The medieval planning makes navigation difficult so we wandered happily through the picturesque streets along with thousands of other tourists all clutching maps. Our hotel was a tram ride from the centre though we walked in the 1.5 km the first day and home gain on our wits- I think 5km or so with some dodgy navigation- we did happen upon cute parks with old ladies in them and local activity so it was interesting. We also saw the TV tower which you can see from all over Prague close up- it has babies crawling up it ( actually sculptures) which is a bizarre concept- shouldn't surprise one in Kafka's hometown??
We went over the river to the castle and St Vitus's church ( Mucha had done one of the stained glass windows there)- superb gothic cathedral-worth a visit.Palace was bare but interesting and the torture chamber at D tower nearby was stomach turning- bad vibes+++.
Visited the Jewish area on Thursday- weren't meant to go in as there was a noisy American blocking the queue at the only place to buy tickets-spied through the wall at the overcrowded and overgrown gravestones under enormous trees. Had great lunch- cheeses and interesting breads with Stella Artois for a change instead of pilsner at Moules in the jewish area- great shops around here too- Cartier etc. plus classy tourist shops with exquisite glassware, garnets and crystals. Already have too much stuff so resisted temptation.Took lots of photos though!
Had not been to the fabled Wenceslas Square- only crossed it on the No 9 tram-so the last am went there strolled up to the National Museum and entered.Charming lady at the audioguides told us Casino Royale was filmed in the foyer- as the casino- certainly very beautiful decoration.
The displays were very interesting- meteorites, gemstones et. along with excellent ethnography displays from Bronze age through to medieval times-all well arranged and fascinating to us Time team fans! Zoology with the moa and woolly mammoth displays was also good tho the Australian animals were a bit threadbare-they need a decent ringtail possum which we would be glad to donate from our back yard!
Easyjet was fine both ways and we enjoyede our visit a lot.
Back in UK getting ready for the Irish trip on Tuesday- expecting cooler weather there-will be a change to have cold instead of heat and humidity.
Sunday, August 5, 2007
Bury and surrounds
Had a lovely day with Keith in Bury yesterday- market stalls in the square and lots of people having a good time. Street jazz musos and lots of flowered boxes and lamp post baskets.
The cathedral grounds were spectacular garden wise-local disabled people maintain and plant it-Had a massage today at Clarice house to try to sort out neck- dodgy after plane I think.
D has the dreaded lurgie but nobly soldiering on-hope we get to Prague tomorrow.
The cathedral grounds were spectacular garden wise-local disabled people maintain and plant it-Had a massage today at Clarice house to try to sort out neck- dodgy after plane I think.
D has the dreaded lurgie but nobly soldiering on-hope we get to Prague tomorrow.
Friday, August 3, 2007
Suffolk continued
Beautiful weather today- sunny and not too hot. Keith and Carol have taken us to ancient church- nr St Botolph's grave etc. in Iken- 8th century with later additions and very quaint- highland cattle grazing nearby and nearly ran over a hedghog! We had a pleasant lunch at Waldingham overlooking an estuary- little sailboats, fisherman with interesting accents and colourful rowboats pulled onto the beach.
Dale has caught my cold- hopefully not too bad.
Dale has caught my cold- hopefully not too bad.
Thursday, August 2, 2007
Suffolk Hollyhocks
Our friends took us on a great tour today to Lavenham.This an interesting village where wool trade was wealth producing to the area- the guild hall is a fascinating museum of displays about production of wool and horsehair products as well as history of the area.The church was stripped by Henry VIII and the puritans finished the job but there are interesting tombs of families and lovely stained glass. The village is mostly half timbered houses- small scale and very cute. Hollyhocks out everywhere and all green and lush- really beautiful.
We also visited Kersey- similar cuteness but not as touristy. One house by the stream was built in 1490-still inhabited -if slightly derelict.Farmland around flat mostly with fields of mown crops- haystacks- some handmade dot the area. Spotted a large pheasant in a hedgerow- no doubt a good target for the shoot starting next week.This is largely a bit of the world that is isolated because it is not on the way to anywhere so is largely unspoilt.
We also visited Kersey- similar cuteness but not as touristy. One house by the stream was built in 1490-still inhabited -if slightly derelict.Farmland around flat mostly with fields of mown crops- haystacks- some handmade dot the area. Spotted a large pheasant in a hedgerow- no doubt a good target for the shoot starting next week.This is largely a bit of the world that is isolated because it is not on the way to anywhere so is largely unspoilt.
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Thurston Suffolk- near Bury St Edmunds
Quizzed at immigration- where were we going etc.?Had to produce return ticket!Keith and Carol met us at Heathrow and drove us via a series of freeways to their village 100k away- not a traffic light did we see.
The approach to the village was through a beautiful wood with fern undergrowth-pheasant shooting is about to start there and we think we glimpsed one.
Suffolk is beautiful- green and lush -surreal after Dubai adventure.
Spent yesterday relaxing and catching up with Keith and Carol- they have a beautiful house and garden.
Today walked around the lake at Ickworth- a National Trust house- geese dived onto the lake and we watched them bobbing about-much better trained than Australian geese who are often in attack mode! Garden superb and lots of wildflowers out- gorgeous!
Needed cash, so went into Bury to the bank- superb windowboxes and flower displays on lampposts and in garden beds on roundabouts- all maintained by local handicapped people brilliant idea.
Carol has more adventure planned for us-going with the flow!
The approach to the village was through a beautiful wood with fern undergrowth-pheasant shooting is about to start there and we think we glimpsed one.
Suffolk is beautiful- green and lush -surreal after Dubai adventure.
Spent yesterday relaxing and catching up with Keith and Carol- they have a beautiful house and garden.
Today walked around the lake at Ickworth- a National Trust house- geese dived onto the lake and we watched them bobbing about-much better trained than Australian geese who are often in attack mode! Garden superb and lots of wildflowers out- gorgeous!
Needed cash, so went into Bury to the bank- superb windowboxes and flower displays on lampposts and in garden beds on roundabouts- all maintained by local handicapped people brilliant idea.
Carol has more adventure planned for us-going with the flow!
Dubai
Had a great time there- jet lagged but such a fascinating place! Building +++ everywhere and traffic that flew along great roads built by the resident ruler for his people-dark windowed cars usually$WD's were the locals and all pulled over to allow them to pass- even at 120k per hour- no seatbelts but very skilful drivers on the whole!
70000 dollars must be paid to the family of anyone you kill on the road. Trucks travel at 60 k on the outside lane- penalty jail and deportation for the driver! Ruler has a benevolent dictatorship- announces a new law one day in the newspaper and that's it! Place is very safe-and despite 48 degree heat during the desert safari- i.e. sand skiing in a 4WD -we had a great time.
Visited the Gold Souk- amazing craftsman ship and every design you could imagine from discreet and tasteful to the truly OTT!
Some looked like gold steel wool, some like fine mesh. Rushed for time there 38 degC at 1130p.m.!
As we had the brother of a friend of mine showing us around we went to Hattah Fort and lake - looks like Afghanistan landscape with green lake!
Went to the Blue Souk-beautiful Moorish architecture and cheaper rug shops than Dubai!
Visited a new Shopping mall- no expense spared makes Chadstone look plain and small- has an Egyptian room, Tunisian room, Chinese Room ++ all with elaborate decor and chandeliers etc.
Fascinating history displays also about explorers,mathematics and astronomy.
Most building is less thn 3 years old and there are cranes everywhere. A metro is being built very fast and with 80% of the population imported to service the tourist, building banking etc.the locals have a pretty nice life I think. Would like to visit again in their winter when lower temperatures and clear skies- not dust from the desert blocking the sun.
70000 dollars must be paid to the family of anyone you kill on the road. Trucks travel at 60 k on the outside lane- penalty jail and deportation for the driver! Ruler has a benevolent dictatorship- announces a new law one day in the newspaper and that's it! Place is very safe-and despite 48 degree heat during the desert safari- i.e. sand skiing in a 4WD -we had a great time.
Visited the Gold Souk- amazing craftsman ship and every design you could imagine from discreet and tasteful to the truly OTT!
Some looked like gold steel wool, some like fine mesh. Rushed for time there 38 degC at 1130p.m.!
As we had the brother of a friend of mine showing us around we went to Hattah Fort and lake - looks like Afghanistan landscape with green lake!
Went to the Blue Souk-beautiful Moorish architecture and cheaper rug shops than Dubai!
Visited a new Shopping mall- no expense spared makes Chadstone look plain and small- has an Egyptian room, Tunisian room, Chinese Room ++ all with elaborate decor and chandeliers etc.
Fascinating history displays also about explorers,mathematics and astronomy.
Most building is less thn 3 years old and there are cranes everywhere. A metro is being built very fast and with 80% of the population imported to service the tourist, building banking etc.the locals have a pretty nice life I think. Would like to visit again in their winter when lower temperatures and clear skies- not dust from the desert blocking the sun.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)